СВ гребню
Mixed4А4,547 m
Route Description: СВ гребню
Ascent to the summit of Айлама (Ailama) via the Northeast ridge, route category 4A, ice-snow slope, 6-10 hours from the initial bivouac.
80. Aylama via the Northeast ridge-slope (ice and snow route, G. Wullea, cat. 4A, fig. 5, 17). From the Aylama camps (camp 44) cross (closed crevasses) the Western branch of the Aylama glacier and, along the snowy slopes on the right side of the Western branch, move towards the Eastern walls of the Aylama summit.
Here, turn right and, following the center, bypass numerous crevasses of the heavily crevassed Northwest short steep branch, which flows into the Western branch of the Aylama glacier, and approach the left side of the upper part of the Northeast ridge of the summit (closed crevasses). Then:
- 500–600 m upwards, keeping to the right side of the steep heavily crevassed ice and snow Eastern slope;
- ascend to the Northeast ridge at the point where it turns into the ice and snow slope of the summit dome.
From here, ascend 300–350 m up and to the right along the steep ice and snow slope, bypassing ice cliffs and drops (avalanches, ice falls). Below are the ice falls of the North wall! Then turn left and, along the gradually flattening 400–500-meter snow slope (avalanches), reach the summit of Aylama. From the initial bivouac, 6–10 hours.
M. Chertkov's group ascended to the Northeast ridge from the Dykhsu glacier.
Fig. 17.
0
0