Ю гребню

Mixed3,742 m
SummitMateSSummitMate
May 8, 2025
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Traversing Viatău from SE to NW: route description, detailed information on passage and descent from the summit.

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Traverse of Viatau from northeast to northwest, ~Category II route

From the "Dzhangutugan" alpine camp, ascend along the trail on the right (orographic) bank of the Adyl-su River, then cross to its left bank via a bridge. Follow the trail along the left bank to the "Green Hotel" clearing. This is the initial bivouac site. The journey from the "Dzhangutugan" alpine camp takes approximately 2 hours. From the "Green Hotel," access the Dzhankuat Glacier and move upwards along it, sticking to its right side. After 350–400 m, turn left and ascend to the right-bank moraine at its lowest point. Continue the ascent along the moraine. Having passed the foot of the Western ridge of Viatau peak, turn left, descend from the moraine, and ascend along the southern slopes of the Western ridge:

  • initially along a grassy slope,
  • then across small scree,
  • followed by large scree,
  • bypassing the base of the broad scree-filled Southern couloir (used by the Category I route),
  • continue along the scree at the base of the southeastern horizontal ridge to the right of Viatau peak (refer to Fig. I and Photo I).
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