В гребню
Description of the route to the Western branch of the Kulak Glacier with information about the terrain and climbing features.
Western branch of Kulak glacier
Route Description: В гребню
SSummitMateThe route to the summit of Kulak via the Eastern ridge is rated as Category 3B difficulty and includes snowy-ice slopes and rocky sections with piton belay.
233. Kulak via the Eastern Ridge (combined route by N. Popov, category III difficulty, fig. 18, 28).
From the "Chegem" tourist base (group of 4–8 people), ascend along the trail on the left bank of the Kulak River, then cross to the right bank via a bridge and approach the koshu along the trail. Continue along the right-bank moraine of the Kulak glacier. After fording the stream from the Chat glacier, approach the point where the Northwest Branch of the Kulak glacier merges with it from the right. Here, descend from the moraine to the left onto the glacier and, having traversed:
- the Northwest Branch of the Kulak glacier,
- the base of the Eastern Ridge of the Bodorku peak, reach a lake located under the left (southern) side of the base of the Eastern Ridge of the Bodorku peak. A bivouac is possible by the lake. From the "Chegem" tourist base, it takes 5–6 hours. From the lake, cross to the left (south) onto the exposed Western Branch of the Kulak glacier