№ 582 p.34 January 26, 1988 72

ROUTE DESCRIPTION

69. to Mt. Dombay/Gl./ via North face 5A cat. diff. V. Budanov, 38 Western Caucasus from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass

DESCRIPTION

Ascent to Mt. Dombay-Ulgen Main via North face 5A cat. diff. From Dombay plain through Chuchkhur pass, then traverse right — exit under East ridge of Mt. Maly Dombay-Ulgen — bivouac. From Dombay plain — 5–6 hours. From bivouac, first along the eastern ridge 190–120 m, then along the northeastern slope of Maly Dombay-Ulgen and through a bergschrund, exit under the northeastern wall of Mt. Glavny Dombay-Ulgen. Further ascent up difficult rocks 60 m (rocks are smooth, with few cracks), then exit right onto a steep snowpatch (Rockfall hazard!!!). The snowpatch is traversed right-up, and then up rocks of medium difficulty in the direction of a spalling. Near the spalling — a flat area, possible bivouac.