Route Description

From the "conical moraine" of the Amanauz glacier, you need to approach the first step of the glacier along its central part. The first step is bypassed under the slopes of the Juguтурлючат massif. After reaching the plateau of the first step, to approach the wall, you need to pass through the icefall. The landmark for the direction of movement is the rocky ridge that limits the icefall along the eastern slope of Uzlovaya Amanauz. The icefall should be traversed along its central part (R1) to the level of the beginning of the rocky ridge, then approach the rocks and along the boundary of ice and rocks, exit to the ice falls under the wall of Uzlovaya Amanauz. The approach to the beginning of the route is first along the rocky ridge, then in the central part of the icefall, transition to the wall. A bivouac under the wall can be arranged on one of the terraces of the icefall. The landmark for the beginning of the route is the rusty rocks in the lower part of the wall, cut by a deep groove. There are many stones on the ice in this part, brought down by winter snow from the terrace behind the wall's bend. In the summer, the approach to the wall is practically safe. To exit to the wall, you need to overcome the bergschrund. At the end of July, the bergschrund is greatly torn (R2). Through the "plug," approach the rocks and through the ice cornice back to the rocks.