Трио
Route Description: Трио
A new "Trio" route, category 5B, on Treugolnik peak, climbed by Kharkov mountaineers in May 2011 within 21 hours, with route description and technical details.
Triangle Mountain, new route "Trio" 5B
The route was climbed by a team consisting of: Sasha Zakolodnii, Grisha Grigoryev, Denis Kozyrkov from Kharkov.
To date, this line is the sixth, the leftmost one on the wall. The route is very diverse and logical. It entirely follows the natural relief, with a lot of climbing. I made a special effort to minimize the number of bolts and rock transitions (there are only four bolts in total, three of which are on stations). The total time taken to complete the route is 21 hours. The route was climbed in May 2011.
The route starts 10 meters to the left of the "Renaissance" route, near a small pine tree standing alone. On the wall, a letter "Т" is carved.
The line of the "Triangle" route. High-resolution photo R0–R1 50 m, A2, VI, 75–90°. From the small pine tree, go straight up through a series of cracks by climbing; after 15 meters, the cracks converge into one, using artificial aids (slightly to the left of the overhang). Then the crack diverges; continue upwards to the right using artificial aids (old bolts will be visible on the left, but you shouldn't go towards them). Station: bolt + personal anchor.
R1–R2 40 m, A2, V+, 75°. From the station, go straight up the crack using artificial aids for 15 meters. Then climb upwards to the left towards the pine trees (a lot of vegetation). Station on the leftmost pine tree + personal anchor. R2–R3 50 m, A2+, VI, 75°–80°. From the station, climb upwards to the left onto the "katushki" (rocky outcrops) using artificial aids for 15 meters. Then continue upwards through the cracks, and afterwards slightly to the left, by climbing. Station on a small inclined ledge, at the base of a not very pronounced angle. Bolt + personal anchor.