Истукан

The "Istukan" 3B route on Sokol: a short, interesting path with diverse climbing and belaying, recommended for training before tackling category 5 routes.

Sokol — 47 Istukan 3B[#8] (A. Kuzmitsky — I. Artemov, February 2006) R0–R1: 40 m, 6a, A1+. Up left via the internal corner by simple climbing to a ledge with a tree, then up via a vertical crack by climbing interchanged with A1+ gear, with a gradual drift leftwards. Belay station on a ledge, on a juniper. R1–R2: 40 m, 4a. Straight up. Belay station on one of the large trees at the base of the ridge. R2–R3: 40–45 m. Simple traverse along the ridge, protection as necessary. Belay station on a tree left of the ridge base. R3–R4: 40–45 m, 5B. Up left — traverse via slabs to a system of cracks, via them up to a vertical wall (be cautious, loose rocks) and through it to a ledge. Landmark — a huge tree on the ledge. Protection is easy to arrange while climbing. Further along the ledge — traverse rightwards to the base of a leaning slab. Belay station on a large boulder. R4–R5: 25 m, 6A+. Up via the right part of the leaning slab (huge gap between the slab and the wall) with an exit onto it, further up via a bolt to a plateau. Belay station on a large characteristic pine tree 5–7 meters from the edge. Recommended equipment: 50 m rope, 12–16 quickdraws, a set of nuts, large cams and hexes — 2–3 pcs., slings — 2–3 pcs., hammers, pitons.