Череп

Cherep. 1B.

Follow the trail to the clearing with former mountaineering campsites (scattered with large stones). From the clearing, follow a faint trail towards the rocky scree. From the stones near the river, a rusty, crumbling wall is visible; move in its direction with no clear trail. Approach the rusty, crumbling wall (there's no need to climb into the couloir above it) and move right along it for 30–40 m. A vegetation-filled couloir will appear on the left:

• Put on your harnesses and gear before entering the couloir.
• Move up the couloir through easy rock climbing, with some loose rocks.
• After about 30–40 m, set up station R0 on one of the trees, preferably the left juniper. From R0, you'll see a smoothed wall on the right; R1 is located on a convenient ledge above it. To get to R1 from R0, continue up the couloir onto a crumbling ledge towards a sturdy juniper, marked "М" on the diagram (not to the last tree on the ledge, as some descriptions suggest). From the juniper, move right and you'll see the path to the next trees in the direction of the crumbling rusty corner. Belay from the juniper, lengthen the quickdraw significantly, and move up to the right. Avoid climbing into the rusty, crumbling corner; instead, belay in a crack on the left wall, make a 1 m traverse to the right, and then move up to the ledge with trees. The station is on two new bolted anchors. The rope is rockfall-prone; be cautious. For larger groups, consider setting up an intermediate station on the juniper to avoid being hit by rocks. Climbing grade: 2–3.