Киевский Авангард

Rock559 m
SummitMateSSummitMate
May 8, 2025
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Description of the "Samoded" route, category 5B difficulty level, on Ayya mountain, including details of the passage and the state of the route after repairs in 2005.

Aya — 13

Author: Alexander Lav­ri­n­en­ko, Odessa Samoded route, cat. 5B, VII-, A2, 480 m. We traditionally met 2005 in Batiliman. This time Sergey Pugachev and I decided to combine business with pleasure and repair the Samoded route on Aya. We did it on January 3-4, 2005, in rather bad weather. Now the route is in good condition:

  • There are rappel rings at the belay stations (R1, R2, R3).
  • The route becomes significantly easier afterwards.
  • All stations are on reliable trees. The team Pugachev - Shvets also started repairing the Kornysy route (left of Vorota), but unfortunately, they didn't have time to finish it. Currently, the route is not passable - on the 5th rope, there is a rotten path with 7 bolts that can be broken by hand. Hopefully, we'll finish it someday. Unfortunately, there is no good photo of the Samoded route, but it's hard to get lost in the lower part: the relief is logical, and the bolts are clearly visible. The upper part is well seen on the photo. I'm not sure if our path in the upper part is the most logical, but it's at least not difficult, and those who want to can look for their own way.
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