Ворота

Rock559 m
SummitMateSSummitMate
May 8, 2025
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The "Vorota" route, 5B+ category, on Cape Ayya in Crimea, 550 m long, with a height difference of 440 m, mostly on friction slabs, in a day, with an overnight stay option.

Мыс Айя Route "Ворота" (Gates) 5B+ cat.

Author of the description Vladimir Troyanker

Мыс Айя © photo by Alexey Osipov Elevation gain 440 m. Route length 550 m. Average slope 72°. Possibly, this is the longest wall route in Crimea. 14 ropes, climbing is mainly on friction on slabs. The route is completed in a day, however, late in autumn or in unstable weather, an overnight stay can be considered. From the sanatorium, follow a good trail for about 1 km towards мыс Айя (Cape Aya). 100 m before the end of the trail, ascend under the wall. The start of the route is from a small (4 m) flake. From here, upwards and to the right on rocks of 4-5 cat. 2.5 ropes to the "crocodile's head", there is a block of bolts. You can start the route 50 m to the right - along the flake straight up - it's more difficult there. From the block, 30 m up to a small ledge with old pitons (R4). Further up to a shelf with a tree (R5). In the middle of the shelf, there is a crack going up. The right part of the crack is crumbling. From the tree in the left part of the shelf:

  • difficult traverse left and up 5 m;
  • then along an easy path up to a tree in the left part of the platform under the Gates.
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