Bos

Category 3A route. Protocol №3 from 15.10.1962.

DESCRIPTION OF THE TRAVERSE ROUTE OF SYPUCHAYA PEAK VIA THE NORTH-EAST RIDGE

From the bivouac located on the North TEU glacier moraine, ascend the moraines towards the talus descending from the Round Tower of Sypuchaya peak. After 30 minutes, the talus is reached, and the ascent continues along its right side where the talus is coarser. Another 30 minutes of ascent leads to a col between a tooth-shaped gendarme and a red gendarme. The path then bypasses the Tooth gendarme on the left, heading towards the second gendarme, which has a reddish hue. After 25 minutes, the col before the gendarme is reached. Here, it is necessary to rope up. The reddish gendarme is tackled head-on. The path to the gendarme goes through a cleft with careful piton protection, to a platform that is 15 m above the col. During the ascent, 2-3 pitons need to be placed. The rocks are monolithic. Further ascent is along moderately difficult rocks with careful piton protection. The time taken to ascend the gendarme is up to one and a half hours. Along the ascent path, on a small platform, a cairn is built. The ascent goes along the right side of the gendarme; the rocks are slab-like with good handholds. The gendarme is up to 80 m high. Descent: first along an inclined slab, then along the talus. After descending, there is an exit to a "window," bypassing the third gendarme on the left. The gendarmes are bypassed along ledges without losing height. The ledges lead to a trough-like couloir ending with a "plug." Ascend this couloir to the ridge. The ascent time is 1.5 hours. The ridge consists of broken rocks, and it is possible to move simultaneously.