Студентов, Западная
Route Description: ЮВ гребню
Description of the 2A category complexity route to the summit Studentskaya-Vostochnaya 3745 m via the south-eastern ridge, including detailed technical information and photographs.
1.2. Severo-Chuyskiy ridge, Aktuu valley
STUDENTOV Vostochny 3745 m via the south-eastern ridge Proposed:
- Cat. diff. 2A, route No. 64-a
- Route type: combined Note: the height (3745.1) is taken from a published online map at 1:50,000 scale. Elevation gain according to the group's altimeter: 3750–2830 = 920 m. Route length:
- to the pass level — 2700 m (calculated)
Route Description: ЮВ гребню, траверс
Traverse of the Studenov and Yunost peaks, category 2B complexity, via Bolshoy Akturu Glacier and rocky ridge with the key section "Bolshoy zhandarm" - a rocky "saw".
Traverse Students - Yunost, 2B cat. diff.
From the camp, move upstream along the river in the direction of Bolshoy Aktru glacier. Walk along the slopes of Kzyl-Tash peak, following the riverbed to large rocky "ram's foreheads" (1 - 1.5 hours), which are bypassed on the right along a steep talus slope. Further along the edge of the glacier to the slopes of Stazherov peak. The lake is located behind a moraine rampart. There is a glaciologists' camp on the moraine. It takes 2 - 2.5 hours of walking from the camp. A convenient place to spend the night. From the overnight stay on the moraine lake, move up the Bolshoy Aktru glacier (in rope teams!!!), keeping to the rocky ridge on the right. On the left, the glacier drops off a large rocky step. Along the right, gentle part of the glacier, ascend to the level of the rocky step and cross the glacier in the direction of Maashey pass. The ascent is gentle (crevasses!). Time - 2-2.5 hours. From the pass, the path lies to the right along the ridge in the direction of Students peak:
- At first, the ridge is a simple snowy one.
- Before the peak, there is a Big gendarme in the form of a rocky "saw".
- Movement is alternating, with protection through a ledge.
- The "saw" is the key section of the route.
- After the "saw", a straightforward ridge leads to Students peak. Time - 1.5-2 hours. Descent from Students peak and ascent to Yunost peak takes 25-30 minutes along a simple ridge.