Salanov

Description of the ascent route to the summit with a detailed analysis of tactics and technical features.

Fig. 27

Ascent to Salanova peak via Salanova glacier, a 2B category route running through the saddle between Chekist peak and Salanova peak.

Ascent from the Salanov Glacier, route 2B cat. diff. (fig. 27). The peak Salanov is located in the Aktau spur of the Trans-Ili Alatau ridge in the upper reaches of the Salanov Glacier. Dmitry Salanov was one of the first climbers in Kazakhstan and died during the Great Patriotic War. From the bivouac site on the Shokalsky Glacier moraine, the ascent begins along the tongue of the Salanov Glacier and further along the glacier on the left side to the saddle between the peaks Chekist and Salanov Peak. The saddle is visible from the glacier. The ascent to the saddle should be done via a wide couloir, initially not clearly defined. The bottom of the couloir is covered with snow in the first half of summer and later filled with a gentle scree. Ascent: from the overnight stay at Zelyonaya Polyana - up to 2.5 hours. from the overnight stay on the Shokalsky Glacier moraine - about 2 hours. There is a cairn on the saddle. The ascent from the saddle is through a "window" to the right of the direction of travel. Belaying is required. Further along the snowfield, bypassing a series of small rock outcrops on the left. Belaying via ice axe. The subsequent path along the ridge is blocked by 4 gendarmes: