Lakra

Peak3,720 m
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Ascent to Leiragr peak via the Western ridge, a combined route of 3A category of difficulty, 10-13 hours from Nakra village.

  1. Leiraq via the West Ridge (combined route, T. Suprunova, category 3A complexity, fig. 32, 43). On the right side of the Leiraq Glacier (milestone 316) ascend along the northern slopes of the Unnamed Peak to the saddle in the West Ridge of Leiraq peak — the Alpinist Pass. Here, turn right and, crossing the bergschrund, ascend the steep snow-ice slope or, to the left, along the scree and easy rocks to the Alpinist Pass. Bivouac. 5–7 hours from the village of Nakra. At the pass, turn left and reach the West Ridge rocks of Leiraq peak. Follow the straightforward 200-meter West Ridge, overcoming three small gendarmes directly (with protection), to reach a plateau with a small lake. From the lake, ascend a 30–40-meter wall of moderate difficulty (using pitons) to a plateau. Then, traverse 30–40 meters of steep rocks of moderate difficulty («unstable rocks», with protection); subsequently, follow the straightforward rocky, partially snow-covered (with cornices) West Ridge with an ice pitch to reach the summit of Leiraq. 5–6 hours from the Alpinist Pass.
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