Западная Усечёнка

Peak4,650 m
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Description of the route to Peak "XXII Congress of the CPSU" (4650 m) 5A category of difficulty via the northern counterfort with a detailed description of the passage of the most difficult sections and the technical techniques used.

Route 5A cat. sl., description compiled by Aksenov V.A.

General Information about the Climbing Area

Peak "XXII Congress of the CPSU" is located in the Kyrgyz Range, part of the Western Tian Shan system, and belongs to the Alamedin River basin. The northeastern and northern slopes of the summit descend to the glacier of the Salyk River basin, which flows into the Alamedin River. The northwestern slopes of the summit, covered with ice, abruptly break off to the Peremin Glacier, located between the slopes of this summit and the northern peak of the Alamedin Wall. The southern slopes descend to the Ozorovsky Glacier in the Alamedin River basin. To the east and west of Peak "XXII Congress of the CPSU" are peaks that are of significant interest to climbers. The height of the summit above sea level is 4650 m, with a relative height of about 1200 m. In terms of sports, Peak "XXII Congress" is of significant interest. To the west, a ridge extends with an unnamed peak. The ascent along the northwestern counterfort, followed by a traverse of both peaks, is a route of the highest category of difficulty.

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Ascent via the southwestern wall of Peak Kommunizma in Pamir, 6A category of difficulty, the passage of a team of experienced climbers.

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