R2 60 m 75° IV
R1 40 m 2A
R0 150 m 2A + +

Route Description

to peak 3900 m (site "Uglovoy") via NW ridge, cat. III Having left the bivouac located near the Hydrometeorological Station on Golubina Glacier, cross the glacier and approach the route. Section O–I — an inclined, free rock shelf with a slope of 35° is traversed simultaneously with belay on protrusions. A control cairn is located on a small ledge. From the control cairn, go straight up the wall with a slope of 65° — a passage of medium difficulty, 40 m. Convenient belay points. 8–9 pitons per rope. Section 2–3 — an exit to a gendarme — 60 m: the slope increases to 75°, belay points are convenient, rocks are heavily destroyed, also 8–9 pitons per rope. 4 hours from the start of the route. Bypassing the gendarme (section 3–4) along the main shelf with a slope of 40° simultaneously with belay through protrusions. Further, 120 m along a steep wall of medium difficulty with a slope of 85° (in some places up to 90°). Piton belay — up to 10 pitons per rope. From here, moving simultaneously in traverse to the left along destroyed rocks, exit to the summit. 4 hours from the gendarme. Descent along the ridge to the last gendarme (simultaneous movement). From the last gendarme, rappel 60 m to the western side with an exit to the main shelf. Further, to the ice-snow plateau and down the couloir of route 2A to peak 4 IO 7, descend to Golubina Glacier. Recommendations:

• Most of the route is traversed on friction, so it is not recommended to move along the route in bad weather. Note: I. In general, according to the length of sections of category IV, the route deserves category 4A difficulty, however, its relatively small overall length allows recommending it to be classified as 3B.

2. The large number of pitons indicated in the report is explained by the low qualification of the participants (III sports category) and the fact that this ascent was a first ascent.

Ascent Passport

to p. Uglovoy (3900) First Ascent

1. Type of ascent — rock climb. 2. Region of ascent — Kyrgyz range, Golubina lake area
2. Peak "Uglovoy" (conditional name) 3900 m according to NW classification, rock climb route
3. Proposed category of difficulty — 3B. 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 450 m, length — 530 m, including sections of III–IV category of difficulty — 220 m, average steepness — 58°
4. Pitons hammered — 14/2 protection gear — 11/4