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Peak5,155 m
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Ascent to Pik Obzorny (5250 m) from Ototash Glacier, category 2B, duration 8-10 hours.

An isolated high peak in the spur between the middle parts of the Ototash and Nalivkin glaciers. The Pik Piramidy is separated from Obzorny peak by the P-2 pass. The summit is completely snow-ice, rock outcrops are rare even on the ridges. The ascent to the summit from the Ototash glacier takes 8–10 hours and is made along the indistinct southwestern counterfort.

ASCENT TO PIK OBZORNY FROM THE WEST (2B category)

From the camp located in the upper part of the Ototash glacier, we set out at 5:00 am. We cross the two-kilometer width of the glacier through deep snow and begin the ascent head-on. Gradually, the ice begins to emerge from under the snow, so we move to the right (to the south). At this point, the peak drops to the glacier with a steep rocky wall - the path lies along the edge formed by the cirque from the south and the glacier sliding down from the summit. Sections of uncomplicated rocks alternate with deep snow, only occasionally there are sections of ice — we try to bypass them. We move connected, but the movement is mostly simultaneous. Only at the very end of the rib, when reaching the snow dome of the summit — 2 ropes of interesting, but uncomplicated rock climbing along a not steep snowy wall.

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