友谊峰

Peak0
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Ascent to Peak Druzhba via the northwest ridge, category 3A difficulty, with a description of the route, obstacles, and adventures during the ascent and descent.

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Ascent to the peak Druzhba via the North-West Ridge

(3A cat. of diff.) We depart from the camp located on Lake Ototash at the foot of the peak Trezubets at 5 a.m. The ascent goes via a relatively gentle glacier covered in deep snow. The snow is covered with an ice crust on top. Almost the entire way the crust collapses under a person's weight and feet sink into the snow up to the knees. We move 100–200 m away from the Trezubets walls gradually turning right. After 1 hour and 30 minutes of walking, we pass several wide crevasses entirely filled with snow. 30 minutes later, we reach Col K-3. Features of the col:

  • A gentle snow-covered glacier ascends smoothly and descends just as smoothly to the south.
  • There are no crevasses on the col.
  • Steep cliffs are located on both sides of the glacier.
  • A steep, seemingly sheer glacier descends from the summit of Trezubets. It is also free of crevasses.
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