Route Description

From the Mynzhilki weather station, ascend to Alpingrad. The traverse begins with peak Amangeldy 1B from the West (see description of Amangeldy 1B from the West). After the summit, descend in the eastern direction towards Pionerisky Pass via the 2B category route. From Pionerisky Pass, ascend to peak Pioner via the 1B category route. Then move south towards the summit of Uchitel (see description of the traverse Uchitel - Pioner 3A). From the summit of Uchitel, descend east via the 2A category route to peak Uchitel until the Heroes of Panfilov Pass. Ascend to peak Heroes of Panfilov via the 2B category route along the western ridge (see description). Descend towards Mametova Pass. From Mametova Pass, follow the route to Manshuk Mametova via the northern ridge 3B category until the summit (see description). Descend via the 2A category route from the M. Mametova glacier. Then descend to Alpengrad. Completed by a group led by T. Lebedev in 1999.

Recommendations

1. Number of participants - 6-8 people.
2. Initial bivouac - Alpengrad.

Antikainen (4000 m)

Ascent via the southern ridge — Cat. 1B

The summit of Antikainen is located on the main ridge of the Malo-Almatinsky spur between the summits of Otechestvennoy Voyny and Manshuk Mametova. From the Mynzhilki weather station, cross the Malaya Almatinka river and, bypassing the ancient moraines of the Manshuk Mametova glacier, then the western ridge of Antikainen, move along its foot, gradually gaining altitude. Ascend via the lateral moraine of the Mayakovsky glacier to the last couloir on the southern slope of the western ridge. Ascend the couloir to its fork and continue along the right branch. Further ascent is via heavily broken rocks and scree, keeping to the left side of the couloir (be cautious!). Upon reaching the black scree at the junction of the western lateral ridge and the main ridge, traverse it and reach the main ridge. The summit of Antikainen rises 6–7 m above the ridge in the form of a pointed tower, with a cairn on it. Descent is via the ascent route. The ascent takes 6–7 hours. The first ascent to the summit was made on July 7, 1940, by a group of Almaty climbers led by I. Mezdrikov.

Recommendations for Climbers

1. Number of participants is not limited.
2. Initial bivouac is in the area of the Mynzhilki weather station.
3. Departure from the bivouac at 5–6 a.m.