Muztau

Description of the ascent route to the summit, terrain details, and key elements of the alpinist's path.

Fig. 6

The ascent to the summit of Muztau (4556 m) via the northern edge from the Toguзак Glacier, a route of 2A category of complexity, takes 8-9 hours.

Muztau (4556 m) Ascent from the Toguзак Glacier along the northern edge, route 2А category of complexity (fig. 6). The Muztau peak is located in the main ridge of the Trans-Ili Alatau. To the east of it, separated by a vast firn plateau, rises the peak Sovetsky Kazakhstan, and to the south-west, also behind a large firn plateau, is the peak 10 let Kazakhskoy SSR. From the initial bivouac on the terminal moraine of the Toguзак Glacier - exit to its left branch. The tongue of the glacier and the glacier itself are not steep. Above the place where the right and left branches of the glacier merge, there are transverse crevices. Here, rope up and go to the foot of the northern edge of Muztau. Further ascent along this edge. From the bivouac - 1.5-2 hours of walking. The further path is visible from