Ascent to Medikov Peak (3650 m) via the northern edge, category 3A difficulty, 7 hours approaches, 14 hours ascent.
Ascent to Peak "Medikov" 3A — complexity category via the northern ridge Peak "Medikov" is located in the Ivan-Kaldy ridge in the Sanghi-Navishta area. Its height is 3650 m. It has three peaks; the ascent to the central, highest one via the northern ridge is categorized as 3A complexity. The approach to the peak is along the Gusharinka River. After driving about 1.5 km past Gushari, near two walnut trees standing alone on the left side of the road (in the direction of travel), the ascent to the pass leading to this area begins. The ascent along the trail takes about 1 hour, followed by a descent into the river valley. On the left side (in the direction of travel) of the river, after 3-4 hours of walking, it is convenient to set up an overnight stay. Firewood is available. From the overnight stay, continuing upstream along the river, after 30-40 minutes, we approach the fork of the gorges; the left one leads to the Sanghi-Navishta area towards the peaks of this area. By following this gorge, we emerge onto a wide plateau-glacier. Even from the approaches, before the last significant ascent, Peak "Medikov" is visible on the left (in the direction of travel) resembling a trident. On the plateau: to the right is the Dvukh Pass, straight ahead is the Okno Pass, and to the left is the Yuzhny Pass, which we reach by going along the peak. On Peak Yuzhny (3320 m), there is a note. The total time for the approach from the road is 7 hours. NOTE: The exit to Peak Yuzhny is possible directly from the pass without descending into the Gusharinka River valley, via the ridge. This path is shorter but more challenging. R1