Кичик-Айлама

п. Дружбы 5196 When choosing the route, safe approaches to it were studied, and reconnaissance of the approach was carried out. Since the ridge is a smooth monolithic rock, alternating with heavily destroyed ones, we took several large loops (Ø up to 1 m) to organize insurance points by throwing them on very large ledges, which justified itself very well. And also full sets of nuts and "friends" were taken, which is irreplaceable on such relief. The complexity of the relief made it necessary to rely on the work of the first participant without a backpack. The remaining participants climbed up the ropes with top rope. To provide the leader with pitons and nuts, the second participant cleaned the route from pitons as much as possible. On easy sections of the route, the first participant went with a light backpack. By the end of the first day of the route, it started raining with snow, so in the morning of the second day everything was covered with a small layer of snow. On the first overnight stay on a rubble inclined shelf, ropes were organized, fixed on ice screws that passed through the tent. All participants spent the night in harnesses and on self-arrest. Observers (MS Boyko V., CMS Lebedev M., doctor Valikov E.) were staying overnight near the glacier, from where the route was almost entirely visible. Regular radio communication (at least 2 times a day) was maintained with groups in the Gaumysh gorge and through them with the base camp in the Alaudin gorge. ¹

Footnotes

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