Molodyozhnyj

Traversing Molodezhnaya and Kosmodemyanskaya peaks from Molodezhny pass, category 2A, with route description and recommendations for climbers.

Traverse from Molodezhnogo Pass to the peaks of Molodezhnaya and Kosmodemyanskaya (2A) The description of the beginning of the route from the initial bivouac to the summit of Molodezhnaya is given above. The route continues from the small eastern elevation of the Molodezhnaya summit. Having descended from it about 100 m to the southwest, traverse the rocky ridge and climb up the couloir to the saddle between the Molodezhnaya summit and the Kosmodemyanskaya peak. At the beginning of summer, the saddle is snowy, at the end - ice is exposed. The first group of rocks should be bypassed on the right, the second - on the left. The next stage of the route is going around the rocks on the west side of the ridge of the summit, then along the couloir and further up the broken rocks to rise under the gendarme. Having organized piton belay, traverse it on the west side. The ascent from the saddle to the summit tower goes first along a 6-meter slab with a steepness of up to 55°, then traverses the wall for 15–20 m towards a steep chute. The most difficult section of the wall is at the very beginning, where you have to go around the outer corner by wedging your hand and foot into a shallow crevice. There are no cracks to ensure piton belay. The walls and chute are covered with snow for most of the season, and by the end of the season, flow ice forms on them. Having descended from the tower along the ascent path, exit to the south ridge and from it down a narrow steep chute up to 10 m long to the beginning of the couloir. Traverse the couloir and the slabs lying behind it in the southeast direction, then cross one of the rocky ridges separating the numerous couloirs on the eastern side of the summit.