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The route is simple but lengthy. It actually starts from the Laitkhaus hut. Only crampons are required from the equipment; it is advisable to put them on for the descent as there are icy sections. I did not need crampons for the ascent. Rope, harness and other equipment are not required under normal route conditions. On the route one should not spread out, as you may knock a stone down onto a companion. Navigation presents no difficulties.
Due to an anomalously hot summer and specific autumn weather conditions, there is very little ice in the couloir. Below the key section, the ice is not smooth but cut into runnels, and above the key, the second pitch is practically a dry groove choked with snow. There is no ice. Ice exists only on the side on the rock. In the upper funnel, the first 40 meters are also loose ground dusted with snow. No protection.
There is no water on Gruzinskaya polka, the lowest platform is safe, the upper ones are hit.
Reached the overnight camp at 4750m. Ran out of time to reach the summit.
