Conditions made the route slightly harder: worse ice, softer snow, patches of wet rock, a less convenient bergschrund. But the line was still recognizably the same.
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Байчечекей
Uchitel glacier and Korona ridge area · Chuy Region · Kyrgyzstan
АПConditions made the route slightly harder: worse ice, softer snow, patches of wet rock, a less convenient bergschrund. But the line was still recognizably the same.
Full-day route. A fast retreat is no longer always possible; route-finding and descent need attention, a delay leads to a late finish.
Sustained moderate danger. Good timing and conditions help, but do not remove the risk entirely.
Mixed picture: recurring run-outs, dubious placements, slabs, ledges or swings. A fall may end in injury.
1 section
About 70–80°: already steep ice where confident front-pointing and careful tool work are needed.
Translated from Russian
Due to an anomalously hot summer and specific autumn weather conditions, there is very little ice in the couloir. Below the key section, the ice is not smooth but cut into runnels, and above the key, the second pitch is practically a dry groove choked with snow. There is no ice. Ice exists only on the side on the rock. In the upper funnel, the first 40 meters are also loose ground dusted with snow. No protection.