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Report

On the first ascent to the summit of Vudyavrchorr via the route of category 2B complexity on July 6, 2022

I. Climbing Report

1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the leaderShcherbakov Alexander Vladimirovich, 2nd sports rank
1.2Full name, sports rank of participantsPetrova Alena Mikhailovna, 2nd sports rank
1.3Full name of the coachVernus Tatiana Viktorovna
1.4Organization
2. Characteristics of the Climbing Object
2.1RegionKhibiny
2.2ValleyMassif "Rascheska"
2.3Number of section according to the classification table of 2013
2.4Name and height of the summitVudyavrchorr
2.5Geographical coordinates of the summit (latitude/longitude), GPS coordinatesN67° 38′ E33° 35′
3. Characteristics of the Route
3.1Name of the routeAlong the 2nd spur of the SW ridge "Panoramik"
3.2Proposed category of complexity2B
3.3Degree of route developmentFirst ascent
3.4Relief characteristics of the routeIn summer - rocky, in winter - combined
3.5Height difference of the route (data from altimeter or GPS)640 m
3.6Length of the route (in meters)1750 m
3.7Technical elements of the route (total lengthCategory I - rocks - 200 m, Category II - rocks - 50 m
of sections of different complexity categories indicating relief characteristics (ice-snow, rocky))Category III - rocks - 15 m. Category IV - ice/rocks/combination - m. Category V - ice/rocks/combination - m. Category VI - ice/rocks/combination - m. Rocks VI, A3 - m. Rocks VI, A4 - m
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3.8Average steepness of the route, (°)50°
3.9Average steepness of the main part of the route, (°)70°
3.10Descent from the summitBy category complexity in the valley
3.11Additional characteristics of the routePresence of water at the start of the route
4. Characteristics of the Team's Actions
4.1Time of movement (team's walking hours, in hours and days)4 h
4.2Overnights
4.3Time spent on route developmenthours, days
4.4Start of the route21:30, July 6, 2022
4.5Summit reached23:30, July 6, 2022
4.6Return to the base camp1:00, Polar day
5. Characteristics of Weather Conditions
5.1Temperature, °C+15 °C
5.2Wind speed, m/s3 m/s
5.3Precipitation
5.4Visibility, mMore than 1000 m
6. Person Responsible for the Report
6.1Full name, e-mailtahtar1054@mail.ru

II. Description of the Ascent

1. Characteristics of the Climbing Object

1.1.

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General photo of the mountain. The summit is not visible from the valley.

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Satellite panorama of the route and summit of Vudyavrchorr. Satellite imagery as of July 5, 2021. Known classified routes in this massif are absent.

1.3. Map of the Area

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The city of Kirovsk can serve as a reference point (base camp). From the city, move along the asphalt road towards Apatity for about 5 km, then turn right opposite the old airfield, and continue along the dirt road until the railway crossing, and turn right after the crossing. After the turn, continue for another 2 km and turn onto a characteristic forest road, following the northern direction.

The starting point of the approach is:

  • a characteristic sandy site;
  • an installed power line support.

The landmark is the "Rascheska" massif, visible from almost all sections of the path.

2. Characteristics of the Route

2.1.

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Section #Name and number of pitonsBelay points, characteristics in UIAA symbolsRoute line in UIAA symbolsComplexity of the section in symbolsSection length, mSteepness, °
R4–R532–340 m75°
R4–R332–340 m70°
R3–R23250 m65°
R2–R11240 m70°
R1–R0150 m50°

3. Characteristics of the Team's Actions

3.1. Brief description of the route passage.

Section #DescriptionPhoto #
R0–R1Start moving along a gentle moss, turning into stone scree. After rain, it can be slippery.1
R1–R2Then, bypassing a steep stone wall on the left, along mossy ledges, climb up to a convenient ledge. Here you can organize a convenient belay station.2
R2–R3To the left, up along a mossy ledge, to a characteristic internal corner composed of large slabs and stones. Medium camalots go well. Then, upwards, pass a sloping mossy ledge and exit through a small ledge to the second ledge to the rocky wall. Belay station.3, 3.1, 3.2
R3–R4Overcome a simple wall 5 m and along a sloping ledge exit under the rocky wall, holding to the left.4
R4–R5From the station, take a left and along the crumbling (initially) wall climb up to the flattening.5

3.2. Photo of the team at the summit with the control tour

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3.3. General recommendations for the route passage

The route is logical and simple to pass. It is not recommended to try to bypass sections of the route to the left or right along the scree parts. The path to the summit, after completing the key part, must be performed between two characteristic depressions in the flattening of the plateau. The descent from the summit passes in the southern part of the mountain, through wooded terrain, and leads to a forest road. Landmarks can be the city of Kirovsk and the line of the chairlift on the mountain Aikuayvenchorr. Often the mountain, until the end of the technical part, is hidden by clouds. In such cases, it is necessary to use a navigator or navigate by the noise of the railway passing at the foot of the mountain. The route is avalanche-prone in winter with a 2nd degree of avalanche danger. It is recommended to pass in the summer.

Photo 1 R0–R1 img-7.jpeg

Photo 2 R1–R2 img-8.jpeg

Photo 3 R2–R3 img-9.jpeg

Photo 3.1 start of R2–R3 img-10.jpeg

Photo 3.2 start of R2–R3 img-11.jpeg

Photo 4 R3–R4 img-12.jpeg

Photo 5 (section R4–R5 marked in yellow) img-13.jpeg

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Sources

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