8.3.12.10

163 mm. Ascent passport

1. Ascent class — combined.
2. Ascent area — Polar Urals.
3. Peak, its height and route via Western ridge of Ray-Iz peak 1057 m.
4. Estimated category of difficulty: 1B (winter).
5. Route characteristics: elevation difference 700 m, section length: R1–R4: 1–1600 m, R5: 2–50 m, average slope: 36.40°.
6. Crucial sections of the route were traversed using protection gear and slings on ledges.
7. Number of moving hours from the start of the route to the summit: 3 h 30 min, from the base camp: 4 h.
8. Full name of the leader, participants and their qualifications:
   • Maltsev S. L., leader, 1st sports category
   • Nekrasov P. A., participant, 2nd sports category
9. Team coach: Fomenko Felix Nikolaevich, Candidate Master of Sports, 1st category instructor-methodologist.
10. Date: May 1, 1995.

First ascent on May 1, 1995, by:

1. Maltsev Sergey Leonidovich, 1st sports category, 3rd category instructor-methodologist.
2. Nekrasov Pavel Albertovich, 2nd sports category. View of the 1B category route on Ray-Iz from summit 1159 (1154), section R3. November 1998.

Brief route description

The Ray-Iz peak gave its name to the entire mountain region. From the geologists' camp towards the Ledopadny pass (Nefritovy waterfall), approach on skis: 30 min, up the river. 300 m before the waterfall, a stream flows down a couloir from the slope of Ray-Iz on the left side. At the confluence of the two streams, we leave the skis and begin the route along the ridge to Ray-Iz peak.

Section R0 — simple ridge, category 1. Slope steepness 30–35°; usually, crampons need to be put on from the start of the route.

Section R1–R2 — rock tower 20 m high. Easy but crumbling rocks, 70% — category 2, 20 m.

R2 — then again a ridge leading to the summit plateau.

R3 — the ridge narrows and leads to the summit via easy rocks, 70% — category 2, 30 m.

Descent is recommended via the couloir from the pass to the start of the route.

Section characteristics:

• R0 – snow ridge, 700 m, 35°, category 1
• R1 – 20 m, 70°, category 2
• R2 – snow ridge, 500 m, 35°, category 1
• R3 – 30 m, 70°, category 2

Route hazards:

• Weather often deteriorates very quickly in the Polar Urals.
• Strong wind, blizzard. The route is recommended only in good, windless weather. Protection on rocks is provided using ledges and protection gear.

Equipment.

1. Main rope 40 m × 11 mm — 1 pc. 1a. Main rope 40 m × 8 mm — 1 pc.
2. Ice axes – for each participant
3. Crampons – for each participant
4. Harness – for each participant
5. Skis and ski poles – for each participant
6. Set of protection gear – 7 pcs.
7. Slings – 3 pcs.
8. First aid kit – 1 pc.
9. Carabiners – 10 pcs.