Ascent Passport

1. Central China, Sichuan Province, Daxi-Shan ridge, section according to the classification table - "11.3. China"

2. Name of the peak: Maria (5482 m), name of the route: via the eastern ridge.

3. Proposed - 5A cat. dif., first ascent.

4. Nature of the route: combined

5. Route elevation gain: 475 m (by GPS)

   Route length: 645 m. Length of sections:

   • IV cat. dif. - 260 m
   • V cat. dif. - 180 m.

   Average steepness:

   • Main part of the route - 51°
   • Entire route - 47°

6. "Hooks" left on the route:

   total: 0 pcs., including pitons: 0 pcs. Hooks used on the route:

   • Stationary pitons: 0 pcs., including for artificial aids: 0 pcs.
   • Removable pitons: 0 pcs., including for artificial aids: 0 pcs.

   Total artificial aids (AID) used:

   • Hooks - 5 pcs.
   • Chocks - 2 pcs.

7. Team's travel time: 16 hours, 3 days

8. Leader: Krasnolutsky Alexander Vyacheslavovich, Candidate Master of Sports

   Participants:

   • Eiduss Sergey Vladimirovich, Candidate Master of Sports
   • Shapovalenko Igor Nikolaevich, Candidate Master of Sports
   • Isaev Alexey Vyacheslavovich, 2nd sports category

9. Coach: Shapovalenko I.N.

10. Departure for the route: 11:00, October 11, 2004

    Summit reached: 15:00, October 12, 2004 Return to base camp: 11:00, October 13, 2004

Technical photograph of the route

Technical photograph of the route

Panoramic photograph of the area

Hand-drawn profile of the route

Sheet 2, page 4.

Ascent graph

Sheet 4, page 7.

• October 11 (6 hours): Until 14:00 - clear, moderate wind, temperature -5°C. After 14:00 - light snow, strong wind, temperature -8°C.
• October 12 (9 hours)
• October 13 (1 hour): Clear, calm, temperature around 0°C.

UIAA symbol route diagram

Sheet 4, page 8.

• R17: 3 hooks, 1 friend/2. 20 m, 5, 70°
• R16: 3 hooks, 2 friends/0. PHOTO 6. 45 m, 3, 40°
• R15: 3 hooks, 2 friends, 1 chock/0. PHOTO 5. 40 m, 4, 60°
• R14: 1 hook, 2 friends/0. PHOTO 4. 40 m, 4, 50°
• R13: 3 friends/0. 30 m, 4, 35°
• R12: 2 friends/0. 15 m, 4, 50°
• R11: 5 hooks, 1 friend/0. Bivouac 1,2. PHOTO 3. 8 m, 3, 40°
• R10: 2 hooks, 1 friend/0. 30 m, 5, 70°
• R9: 0/0. 8 m, 3, 25°
• R8: 3 friends, 1 chock/0. 23 m, 4, 60°
• R7: 0/0. 12 m, 3, 30°
• R6: 4 hooks, 3 friends/2. 40 m, 5, 55°
• R5: 2 friends/0. 30 m, 4, 50°
• R4: 2 friends, 2 chocks/0. PHOTO 2. 20 m, 4, 55°
• R3: 5 hooks/1. 15 m, 5, 60°
• R2: 2 hooks, 3 friends/0. PHOTO 1. 40 m, 3, 40°
• R1: 2 hooks, 1 chock/0. 30 m, 4, 50°
• R0: 0/0. 90 m, 2, 25°
• R20: 0/0. 12 m, 4, 40°
• R19: 8 hooks, 4 friends, 2 chocks/2. 75 m, 5, 70°
• R18: 2 hooks, 2 friends/0. 20 m, 4, 50°

Photo 1

Section R2-R5. Two participants at the belay station at the beginning of section R2, the leader is at the beginning of R3.

Photo 2

Two participants at the base of section R4.

Photo 3

October 12, 2004. Bivouac 1,2.

Photo 4

Section R11-R14. Movement along the ridge.

Photo 6

At the belay station before section R16.

Photo 5

Leader finishing work on section R14.

The report is missing:

1. Overall photo of the summit with routes marked.

   Since this was a first ascent, there are no other routes on the peak, and the overall photo is combined with the technical photo of the route.

2. Photo of the wall profile.

   The route's location is such that, from any angle, the traversed ridge overlaps with other parts of the mountain.

3. Sketch map.

   Since the area is new, no sketch map was found in publicly available sources.

4. Notes from control points and the summit.

   We were the first there - what notes are we talking about?

5. Photo of the group on the summit.

   Since, by the time the group reached the summit, film was only left in the wide-angle "Zenit" camera, the overall shot resembles a family photo with a perspective from the top of the head to the chest with a blurred background. We could have taken such photos in Primorye as well.