Alpine Federation of Russia
Report
on the ascent to Pять Pальцев (Funffingerspitzen, 2996 m) in the Dolomites (Italy) - traverse of the massif from East to West, category 3B difficulty, approximately, on August 16, 2010
Leader: Smirnov V.V. Participants: Penyaev I.N. Mikhailova I.V. Team Coach: Smirnov V.V.
St. Petersburg 2010
Climbing Passport
- Climbing area: Dolomites (Italy), Val di Fassa, Sassolungo massif, section 10.3.
- Peak name: Pять Pальцев (Funffingerspitzen, 2996 m) Route name: traverse of the massif from East to West
- Difficulty category: 3B, approximately
- Route type: rock climbing
- Elevation gain: 210 m Route length: 930 m Section lengths: I–II category: 285 m III category: 320 m IV category: 180 m Average steepness: 49°
- Number of pitons and protection used: 38
- Team's total climbing time: 7 hours
- Leader: Smirnov Viktor Valerievich, Master of Sports Participants: Penyaev Ilya Nikolaevich, 2nd sports category Mikhailova Irina Vasilievna, 3rd sports category
- Coach: Smirnov Viktor Valerievich
- Departure for the route: at 8:00 on August 16, 2010
Summit arrival: at 15:00 on August 16, 2010
Return to base camp: at 18:30 on August 16, 2010
Fig. 1. General photo of the peak
Fig. 2. Photopanorama of the area
Fig. 3. Area map
Route description by sections
| Section number | Length, m | Steepness, ° | Terrain type | Difficulty category | Number of pitons |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| R0–R1 | 20 | 70 | Rock | IV | 3 |
| R1–R2 | 40 | 25 | Rock | I | - |
| R2–R3 | 30 | 70 | Rock | III | 2 |
| R3–R4 | 30 | 80 | Rock | III+ | 2 |
| R4–R5 | 30 | 10 | Rock | II | - |
| R5–R6 | 25 | 75 | Rock | IV | 3 |
| R6–R7 | 25 | 80 | Rock | IV− | 3 |
| R7–R8 | 30 | 65 | Rock | IV− | 4 |
| R8–R9 | 35 | 85 | Rock | IV+ | 5 |
| R9–R10 | 30 | 60 | Rock | III | 1 |
| R10–R11 | 40 | 20 | Rock | II | - |
| R11–R12 | 40 | Rock | Rappelling | - | |
| R12–R13 | 45 | 80 | Rock | III | 2 |
| R13–R14 | 45 | 85 | Rock | IV | 4 |
| R14–R15 | 45 | 60 | Rock | III | 3 |
| R15–R16 | 25 | 70 | Rock | III | 2 |
| R16–R17 | 15 | 50 | Rock | III | - |
| R17–R18 | 80 | 15 | Rock | II | - |
| R18–R19 | 25 | Rock | Rappelling | - | |
| R19–R20 | 50 | 20 | Rock | III | 2 |
| R20–R21 | 15 | Rock | Rappelling | - | |
| R21–R22 | 15 | 10 | Rock | II | 2 |
| R22–R23 | 15 | Rock | Rappelling | - | |
| R23–R24 | 80 | 20 | Rock | II | - |
| R24–R25 | 50 | 45 | Rock | III | - |
| R25 | 50 | Rock | Rappelling | - |
Fig. 4. Route diagram in UIAA symbols
Fig. 5. Technical photo of the route
Fig. 6. Passing section R6. Smirnov V. leads
Fig. 7. Beginning of section R12. Penyaev I. is belaying
Fig. 8. Upper part of section R13
Fig. 9. Section R15
Fig. 10. At the summit
Fig. 11. Descent on section R20
Fig. 12. Rappelling on section R25