Report

On ascending to the summit of Asan via the 5B category complexity route by the team Temerev Ivan – Kashevnick Anton 9–11 July 2024

Ascent Passport

1. By kf 3 st, Alperin, 1987, 5B
2. Left part of the SW wall, Terekhin–Khvostenko, 2019, 5B original Route profile

Area Description

The Karavshin area is well described; our team climbed peak Asan from different sides in different years. The NW wall of peak Asan abounds with 6A category complexity routes. Before the first ascent on peak Odessa, we decided to warm up by climbing the new route of 2019 by Terekhin–Khvostenko. The route taken by our team is located in the left part of the SW wall, in close proximity to Alperin's counterfort. In the upper part (after the key ropes), it converges with Alperin's route (we took the left variant) and leads to the saddle between peaks Asan and Usen. Further to the summit, the movement along the ridge is not difficult.

Tactical Actions of the Team

The route along the left part of the SW wall of peak Asan passes through a clearly defined monolithic relief. The route was climbed as an acclimatization ascent. On the evening of July 8, 2024, we approached the NW wall of peak Asan, prepared a ledge for the tent, partially left by the team of first ascendants, set up a bivouac, had dinner, and went to sleep. On the morning of July 9, it took 20 minutes to approach the start of the route. The plan was to climb to some ledge for an overnight stay and, if possible, hang a couple of ropes higher. We worked with two dynamic ropes, carrying:

• a bag with bivouac gear,
• a day's supply of food + emergency rations.

On the first day, we worked from 7:00 to 20:30, changed places once, reached a ledge on R7, and hung 1.5 ropes higher. We spent the night there, wrapped in sleeping bags and covered with a tent. On July 10, we started working on the fixed ropes at 7:00, almost reached the junction with Alperin's route, and spent the night on R10. The weather was not favorable that day: rain in the second half of the day made it difficult to climb many sections. On July 11, at 14:00, we reached the saddle between Asan and Usen, found ice, lit the burner, had emergency rations for lunch, climbed to the summit, and hurried back to camp due to impending bad weather. On the descent, we were caught in snow with hail, and small avalanches of the resulting substance added to our urgency.

Descent via Tugalev's 4B route.

Technical photo of the route

Route scheme in UIAA symbols

Route Description by Sections (from Terekhin–Khvostenko's Report)

The approach from the base camp to the NW wall of Asan takes 1.5 hours. Climb to the base of the wall via ledges (standard approach to the NW wall routes). Traverse to Alperin's counterfort. From the start of Alperin's route, descend slightly, then continue traversing upwards to the base of the SW wall. There's a good spot for a tent here, with snowfields at the base of the wall. From the spot, climb towards the left part of the wall.

R0–R1. Up to the left via simple rocks. 60 m, III–IV.

R1–R4. Climbing through an internal corner and cracks, three sections of 30 m:

• Section 1: 30 m, 6b
• Section 2: 30 m, 6b
• Section 3: 30 m, 6c. Total length: 90 m, 6b–6c.

R4–R5. Traverse left into another internal corner, bypassing a huge overhanging "ogurtsov". 20 m, 6c–7a. A station can be set up after the traverse or continue moving through the crack and corner for another 30 m, 6a.

R5–R6. Continue climbing through the internal corner to the start of a chimney. 40 m, 6a.

R6–R7. Climbing through the chimney. A bolt was placed in the middle of the section for safety. Above the bolt, after 10 m, there's a jam. After the jam, exit the chimney to the left into an internal corner. Station in the corner, 8 m shy of the top of the "ogurtsov". 50 m, 6a.

R7–R8. Tense climbing through a crack for 8 m. Reach the top of the "ogurtsov". Then:

• Through the left corner
• Traverse right
• Through a thin crack with ITO
• Climb through a cornice
• Enter the right wide crack

45 m, 7a, A2.

R8–R9. Up through a system of cracks. 40 m, 5c–6a.

R9–R10. Attempt to climb a slightly overhanging wide crack (off-width), which widens downwards. Large camalots are necessary for safety, №5, 6. Can be bypassed on the right through a monolithic slab. There are 2 old bolts on the slab, with holes for skyhooks between them – ITO A2. After the slab, return left into the corner. 40 m, 6c, A2.

R10–R12.

• Two sections of 40 m through a large fault — crack, chimney
• Reach Alperin's bastion
• Good ledge for an overnight stay

80 m, 5c–6b.

The route then coincides with Alperin's 5B route. The description can be found on the FAR website. For example, https://alpfederation.ru/api/files/3451↗.

R12–R15. From the ledge upwards through a wide crack (6b) and further up through a system of cracks and ledges. Three ropes. Approach a chimney with "feathers". 155 m, 5c–6b. Did not enter the chimney, traversed left around the corner for 30 m to a good ledge for an overnight stay.

R15–R18. From the overnight stay, climbed straight up through a system of corners and ledges. Reliable monolithic relief. Three ropes to the saddle. 150 m, 5c–6b.

Along the ridge to the summit, 200 m of simple rocks.

Approach to the route.

Bivouac spot at the base of the SW wall, July 8, 2024.

R0–R1 section

R1–R2 section

R2–R3 section

R4–R5 section

R6–R7 section

R7–R8 section.

Overnight stay on R7.

R9–R10 section

View from the summit, waiting for the weather to worsen.

Working on the descent.