Ascent Passport

on p. 4 I 07 m. First Ascent. I. Climbing category — first ascent 2. Ascent area — Kyrgyz range, Golubina lake area 3. Summit p. 4 I 07 m. via E. counterfort, route character — rock 4. Proposed category of difficulty — 2B 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 570 m, length of sections 2–3 cat. diff. — 145 m, average steepness — 47° 6. Pitons driven: rock — 8, ice — 0 7. Number of walking hours — 8 h 8. Number of overnight stays — none 9. Leader — Getman I.S. MS

Participants:

• Kuznetsova T.A. P sport.
• Bazarov Z.I. P sport.
• Rybkin E.A. 1st sport. rank
• Chernov V.A. 1st sport. rank
• Vinokurov A.V. 1st sport. rank GO.

Team coach — Belousov E.B. CMS

I. Date of departure and return — July 19, 1987.

I2. Organization — AUSP "Ala-Archa"

From the overnight stay at the IMC station on Golubina glacier, move upstream, crossing the glacier towards Razvedchikov pass (crevasses) under the wall of p. 4107. The start of the route is 300 m after a large snow couloir, left of the rock "claw". Moving right along an inclined shelf for 40 m, exit into a scree couloir. Up the right part of the couloir for 300 m, alternating under the wall and then left along the wall, exit onto the saddle of the E. counterfort (control cairn). From here, right-up for 40 m with piton belay. Then straight up the moderate rock to the next scree shelf, abutting an internal angle. Then right-up along inclined slabs for 30 m at 60° and left for 10 m to a small couloir. Crossing the couloir, approach a large inclined shelf, abutting the wall of the pre-summit gendarme. Bypassing the gendarme on the right, exit onto the summit (40 m, II cat. diff.).

Descent from the summit towards the NW ridge for 20 m to a saddle and then 40 m sport descent onto a snow plateau. Down the snow to the II couloir and along it, keeping to the left side, onto Golubina glacier.

Time breakdown: approach to the start of the route —