Ascent Passport
on Akduval 442 m. First ascent.
I. Ascent category: ice-snow 2.
Ascent region:
- Kyrgyz Ala-Too range
- Golubina glacier area
Peak:
- Akduval 442 m via ice from the North
Proposed category: 3B
- Route characteristics: height difference — 350 m, length of sections with category 3–4 difficulty — 310 m, average steepness — 51°
Pitons driven:
- rock — 0
- ice — 30 (0)
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Total hours of ascent — 8
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Number of bivouacs — none
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Leader —
Team members:
- Burenin D.A. CMS (Candidate for Master of Sports)
- Vodopyanov S.K. CMS
- Team coach — Belousov E.B. CMS
Date of departure and return — August 2, 1987
Organization — AUSV "Ala-Archa"
Route Description
to peak Akduval 4421 m via ice, category 3B. From the campsite near ALS station, ascend to the glacier plateau on the right orographic side of Golubina glacier, then cross the glacier after passing two glacier rises, and approach directly under peak Akduval (2 hours).
Ascend via the avalanche snow deposit towards the bergschrund. The ascent line passes to the right of the rocky pre-summit island. After overcoming the bergschrund, ascend directly upwards on the ice towards the right side of the small rocky island. Attention! Cornices are possible on the ridge. The steepness of the ice slope changes as you ascend from 45° to 60°. Bypass the rocky island on the right and exit onto the ridge. Then, along the narrow ridge, reach the summit in 25 meters.
Descend along the ridge (300 m), then left and down along the wide snowy slope to reach a saddle on the ridge leading to Logvinenko peak.
- Ascent to the saddle — 70 m
- Then descend to Manas glacier and exit to Shesti pass
- Descend to Golubina glacier
Ascent time to the summit (for a pair) — 6 hours
Descent from the summit to bivouac — 2–3 hours