Peak named after Viktor Kolokolnikov (4100 m)
Ascent from Ozerny glacier, route category 2A (fig. 51).
The peak named after Viktor Kolokolnikov is located in the Northern (Alatas) spur. Viktor Kolokolnikov, after whom the peak is named, was one of the first climbers of Kazakhstan. He died during the Great Patriotic War.
The route to the summit from the Talgar mountaineering camp begins along a steep trail past the training rocks of the Eastern ridge, then along the ridges of ancient moraines of Ozerny glacier to the bivouac site at the Upper training rocks. Walking time is 1–1.5 hours. From here, along the terminal moraine of Ozerny glacier (see marking) to the right lateral moraine and along it to the overnight stay on the moraine opposite a large couloir between the peaks GTO and Kolokolnikov. From the upper training rocks, walking time is 1–1.5 hours.
From the overnight stay, ascend the couloir, which is covered with medium and small scree and surrounded by heavily destroyed rocks. In the upper part, after 250 m, the couloir narrows and is divided by a rocky outcrop into two parts:
- The most convenient path is along the left branch.
- From the overnight stay to the ridge — 2 hours walking.
- At the beginning of the season, the couloir is avalanche-prone.
After reaching the ridge, turn right. The peak GTO is clearly visible from the left side. The ridge is heavily destroyed.
Climb up the snowfield and reach the pre-summit rocks, which are bypassed along the ledges on the right side.
- Climb up the snowfield
- Reach the pre-summit rocks
- Bypass the rocks along the ledges on the right side
From reaching the ridge to the summit, walking time is 1.5 hours. Descent is via the ascent route.
Recommendations for climbers
- Number of participants — no more than 10 people.
- Initial bivouac on the moraine of Ozerny glacier.
- Departure from the initial bivouac, provided the couloir is snow-covered, no later than 4:00.
- Special equipment for a group of 4 people: a) 2 × 30 m main ropes;