Ascent Passport

1. Eastern Sayan, Bolshoy Sayan ridge, Moguvek gorge, section 6.1.
2. Opasnaya peak, 3180 m, via the South Ridge.
3. Proposed as Category complexity, first ascent.
4. Route type — combined.
5. Height difference — 550 m, length — 790 m, average slope — 45°.
6. Pitons driven: rock and wired — 15 pcs.
7. Team's travel time — 7 hours.
8. No overnight stays.
9. Group: Afanasyev A.E. MS Klepikov E.A. 1st sports category.
10. Coach — Afanasyev A.E. MS.
11. Approach to the route and return — May 9, 2003.

Route Description for ascending Opasnaya peak 3180 m via the South Ridge of Category complexity

The South Ridge of Opasnaya peak in its lower part is interrupted by a rock triangle. The Category complexity route starts to the right of this rock outcrop on a snowy slope.

Sect. 0–1. 80 m, 40° I+. Snow slope on barren ridges. Avalanche hazard! Sect. 1–2. 50 m, 75° IV+. Smoothed destroyed rocks. Sect. 2–3. 20 m, 50° II+. Snow slope. Exit to the ridge, control cairn on the ridge to the right. Sect. 3–4. 150 m, 45° II+. To the left of the ridge along fresh destroyed rocks. Sect. 4–5. 40 m, 30° II–. Ridge edge. Sect. 5–6. 30 m, 45° II–. To the left of the ridge. Sect. 6–7. 20 m, 20° II–. Sharp monolithic ridge. Sect. 7–8. 15 m, 40° II–. Crevice to the left. Sect. 8–9. 30 m, 40° II–. Snow trough. Sect. 9–10. 25 m, 65° II–. Inner corner with snow, exit to the ridge. Sect. 10–11. 25 m, 40° II–. Rocky ridge. Sect. 11–12. 15 m, 45° II+. Inner corner on the right face of the ridge. Sect. 12–13. 70 m, 35° I+. Scree slope. Sect. 13–14. 80 m, 40° II–. Snowy ledges around the gendarme to the right up to the junction with the 5A category complexity route. Sect. 14–15. 60 m, 10° I+. Ridge. Sect. 15–16. 80 m, 5° I–. Summit ridge of Opasnaya peak.

Descent:

• Along the western ridge towards Nedotroga peak to the saddle.
• Further down the southern avalanche-prone couloir, which is advisable to clear with rocks beforehand.

Opasnaya peak 3150 m via the South Ridge of Category complexity.

R11–R12

R10–R11

R2–R3

R5–R6