Ascent Log

1. East Sayan, Bolshoy Sayan ridge, Moguvek gorge, section 6.1.
2. Opasnaya peak, 3150 m, via the Western ridge.
3. Proposed 2A category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. The nature of the route is combined.
5. Height difference 400 m, length 580 m, average slope 35°.
6. Pitons driven: rock and wired 4 pcs.
7. Team's travel time — 5 hours.
8. No overnight stays.
9. Group: Moskin O.N. 1st sports category, Afanasiev A.E. MS.
10. Coach: Afanasiev A.E. MS.
11. Departure to the route and return on February 16, 1998.

Description of the ascent route to Opasnaya peak 3180 m via the Southern gully of the Western ridge 2A category of difficulty.

Section R0–R1: 300 m, 45°, 1+. Snowy gully. Avalanche hazard. Section R1–R2: 100 m, 50°, 2–. Snow-covered rocks. Alternating movement to the right of the avalanche-prone gully. Section R2–R3: 20 m, 60°, 2+. Two walls, 10 meters each. Piton insurance, rope handrails. Section R3–R4: 100 m, 55°, 2+. Snow-free, even rock slabs with distinct microrelief. Alternating movement. Section R4–R5: 60 m, 5°, 2–. Rocky ridge. Insurance via bends and outcrops. At the summit — a 5-meter rock. Cairn under the rock. Descent along the western ridge towards Nedotroga peak to the saddle and further along the southern avalanche-prone gully, which is advisable to clear with stones beforehand.

UIAA Scheme

General photo of the peak

Opasnaya peak along the edge, 3A category of difficulty