Route Description

December 2, 2025

aid climbing expedition high altitude mountaineering mixed climbing protection placement trip report

Ascent class: High-altitude. 2. Ascent area: Pamir, Shakhdarin Range.
Peak, its height, ascent route, route character: p. Engels, 6510 m, via N ridge from Shabo Glacier (Bulanov's route) combined.
Complexity category 5B, second ascent.
Route characteristics: Height difference — 1810 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff.: 565 m. Average steepness of the route: 45°.
Pitons hammered for belay (including for I.T.O.): Rock — 211/6. Ice — 79/2. Bolt — 0/25. Chocks — 41/2.
Number of travel hours — 53 h.
Number of nights and their characteristics — 6: Lying — 5, sitting — 1.
Surname, name, patronymic of the team leader, participants and their qualification:
1. Dzhokhadze P.Sh. — Candidate Master of Sports
2. Sarkisov L.A. — Master of Sports
3. Tonoyan G.D. — 1st sports category
4. Taturyan G.A. — 1st sports category
5. Chantladze D.V. — 1st sports category
6. Berishvili T.G. — 1st sports category
7. Ryabovoy M.V. — 1st sports category
8. Rosenberg V.V. — 1st sports category
Team coach — Sarkisov L.A., Master of Sports
Departure date — August 13, 1985, on the summit — August 19, return — August 23, 1985.

Photo of the route profile

Route diagram in UIAA symbols

Table of main route characteristics

№	Section	Avg. slope	Length in meters	Terrain character	Cat. diff.	Condition	Weather conditions	Pitons			Chocks
								rock	ice	bolt
1	R0–R1	35	800	Icefall	IV	Ice	snow, fog	-	5	-	-
2	R1–R2	60	80	Steep slabs	V	Snow-covered rocks	-//-	15	-	-	-
3	R2–R3	20	250	Narrow rock ledge	III+	Snow-covered ledge	-//-	10	-	-	5
4	R3–R4	50	60	Wall	IV+	Snow-covered rocks	-//-	10	-	-	3
5	R4–R5	55	80	Slabs	IV+	Snow-covered slabs	-//-	12	-	-	2
6	R5–R6	50	40	-//-	IV	-//-	-//-	10	-	-	-
7	R6–R7	45	40	-//-	IV	-//-	-//-	6	-	-	2
8	R7–R8	50	40	Wall	IV+	Snow-covered rocks	-//-	8	-	-	-
9	R8–R9	30	45	Cornice ridge	III+	Snow	-//-	-	-	-	-
10	R9–R10	60	50	Smooth wall with flowstone ice	V	Partly ice-covered, snow-covered	sunny	10	-	-	-
11	R10–R11	70	40	Chimney	V+	Filled with flowstone ice	-//-	10	-	-	4
12	R11–R12	90	20	Smooth wall	VI	Dry	-//-	-	-	12	-
13	R12–R13	55	20	Inclined ledge	V	Covered with dry snow	-//-	-	4	-	-
14	R13–R14	95	30	Smooth wall	VI	Dry	-//-	4	-	13	-
15	R14–R15	50	10	Inclined ledge	V	Covered with dry snow	-//-	2	-	-	-
16	R15–R16	100	5	Overhanging wall	VI	Dry rocks	-//-	2 I.T.O.	-	-	2 I.T.O.
17	R16–R17	75	40	Wall	V+	Snow-covered rocks	-//-	10	-	-	3
18	R17–R18	35	60	Snow ridge	IV	Ice covered with snow	-//-	-	10	-	-
19	R18–R19	80	60	Inside corner	V+	Snow-covered corner	-//-	14	-	-	4
20	R19–R20	85	40	Wall	V+	Snow-covered rocks	-//-	12	-	-	5
21	R20–R21	85	40	Chimney	V+	Filled with flowstone ice	-//-	15	-	-	2
22	R21–R22	45	80	Steep snow ridge	IV	Ice covered with dry snow	-//-	-	12	-	-
23	R22–R23	40	100	Steep snow ridge	IV+	Covered with dry snow	"	-	15	-	-
24	R23–R24	70	30	Wall	IV+	Filled with flowstone ice	"	10	-	-	-
25	R24–R25	45	30	Steep snow ridge	IV	Ice covered with dry snow	"	-	5	-	-
26	R25–R26	55	30	Inclined ledge	IV	Partly ice-covered	"	5	-	-	-
27	R26–R27	95	10	Inside corner	VI	Ledge covered with dry snow	"	5	-	-	3
28	R27–R28	55	40	Snow-ice couloir	V	Ice covered with dry snow	"	-	10	-	-
29	R28–R29	85	20	Chimney	V	Partly snow-covered	"	10	-	-	2 I.T.O.
30	R29–R30	75	30	Wall	V	Partly ice-covered	"	6	-	-	4
31	R30–R31	45	120	Steep snow ridge with rocks	IV	Ice covered with dry snow	"	10	5	-	-
32	R31–R32	50	200	" "	IV+	" "	"	15	8	-	-
33	R32–R33	30	100	Snow-ice slope	III+	" "	"	-	5	-	-

Explanations

To the table of main route characteristics

Sections

R0–R1 Icefall R1–R2 Steep snow-covered slabs. R2–R3 Narrow rock ledge. R3–R4 Wall with flowstone ice. R4–R5 Snow-covered slabs. R5–R6 Snow-covered slabs. R6–R7 Snow-covered slabs. R7–R8 Wall. R8–R9 Ridge with cornices. R9–R10 Smooth wall with flowstone ice. R10–R11 Chimney. R11–R12 Inclined ledge. R12–R13 Smooth wall. R13–R14 Smooth wall. Bolt traverse. I.T.O. R14–R15 Snow-covered inclined ledge. R15–R16 Overhanging wall. I.T.O. R16–R17 Wall with flowstone ice. R17–R18 Snow cornice ridge. R18–R19 Inside corner with flowstone ice. R19–R20 Wall with white marble outcrops. R20–R21 Chimney filled with snow. R21–R22 Steep snow ridge. R22–R23 Steep snow ridge. R23–R24 Wall with flowstone ice. R24–R25 Steep snow ridge with dry snow. R25–R26 Inclined ledge. R26–R27 Inside corner, partly with flowstone ice. R27–R28 Snow-ice couloir. R28–R29 Snow-covered chimney. R29–R30 Wall with flowstone ice. R30–R31 Steep snow ridge with rock outcrops. R31–R32 Steep snow ridge with rock outcrops and ice. R32–R33 Snow-ice slope.

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Contents

Route diagram in UIAA symbols

Table of main route characteristics

Explanations

To the table of main route characteristics

Sections

Attached files

Sources

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