2 couloir snow-ice, 20–30 m wide, 30–40° steepness
After crossing the couloir, we again emerge onto the left counterfort. Encountered gendarmes are overcome head-on. The counterfort leads to the pre-summit ridge.
The ascent to the pre-summit ridge follows a steep snowy couloir, 60–65° steepness. The couloir leads to the pre-summit, where a bivouac can be set up. The ascent to the summit is via a gentle snowy slope.
The entire ascent to the summit takes 8–9 hours.
Descent:
- Down the steep snow-ice slope to the north — very difficult and requires careful protection.
- The slope is prone to avalanches and ends with ice fall.
- When descending, stay on the right side, close to the rocks, until you reach the ridge leading northeast.
- From the ridge, descend along the snowy slope (possible ice) to the first bivouac.
The entire ascent and descent takes 11–12 hours.
The technical difficulty of the route is assessed by the group as category 4B.
A group of no more than 6 people is recommended. Recommended equipment for a group of 4:
- Main rope, 40 m — 2 pieces.
- Carabiners — 10 pieces.
- Rock pitons — 6 pieces.
- Ice screws — 4 pieces.
- Hammers — 2 pieces.
- Crampons — 2 pairs.
- Tent — 1 piece.
The description was compiled by A. Kisenev, G. Volynen