ASCENT PASS

Class — combined
Kamchatka, Avachinskaya group of volcanoes
Volcan Arik, 2166 m via SW buttress
Proposed category 3A
Height difference 1166 m, length 3000 m
3 rock pitons hammered in
Duration 8–9 hours
Leader — Ostrogorsky M. Ya., Candidate Master of Sports Participants Neverov V. N., Candidate Master of Sports; Kaluzhny N. A., 1st sports category; Popov V. I., 2nd sports category
Departure on the route May 19, 2000, time — 7:00, summit — 15:00, return — 19:00.
Organized by the year-round training sessions of the "Kuth" Alpine Club

AREA MAP

APPROACH TO THE ROUTE

Route Description

From the bivouac on the Dremuchiy river, crossing lava flows, from the slope of Aag volcano towards the southern ridge of Arik volcano. The southern ridge is bypassed on the right and then ascent up a snowy slope 35° to the start of the SW buttress.

The lower part of the buttress — broken rocks, steepness 55° — 40 m. Ice in places. Movement in rope teams, simultaneous. The buttress then becomes gentler, down to 40°. On the second section, the steepness of the buttress increases to 45–50°. Movement with alternate belay via ledges towards the rocky wall of the upper part of the buttress. The wall, approximately 75° — 40 m, leads to the summit ridge. Passed using rock pitons.

Further movement along the summit ridge (cornices!) towards the summit tower. Movement in rope teams, simultaneous.

The summit tower is climbed via steep snow, then through a rocky wall 15 m — 80°, using rock pitons.

The summit is a narrow rocky area (no more than 2 people). Descent from the summit towards the saddle between Aag and Arik volcanoes. Descent down a steep snowy slope to the saddle, from it towards the base camp on the Dremuchiy river.