Ascent Passport
- Caucasus, Dagestan Mountains, 2.10.44A.
- Erydag, 3825 m, via the left part of the NW wall
- Proposed category: 6B; first winter ascent.
- Route type: rock
- Route elevation gain: 1125 m. Route length: 1952 m.
Section lengths:
- Category 5: 495 m
- Category 6A: 275 m
- Category 6B: 212 m
Average steepness:
- Main part of the route (2800 m – 3891 m): 74°
- Entire route (2800 m – 3925 m): 46°
- Pitons left on the route: total — 0; including stationary pitons — 0.
Pitons used on the route:
- Stationary pitons: 19*; including for artificial aids (AA) — 15
- Removable pitons: 30; including for AA — 15
- Chockstones: 418, including for AA — 268
- Rock pitons: 118, including for AA — 107
Total artificial aid points used: 405
- Team's total climbing hours (including 6 days of preliminary route preparation): 109 hours, 15 days (including 6 days of preliminary route preparation).
- Team leader: Korobkov Alexander Alexandrovich, Master of Sports
Team members:
- Grachev Sergey Anatolyevich, 1st sports category
- Kapitonov Ivan Vasilyevich, 1st sports category
- Kofanov Sergey Anatolyevich, Master of Sports
- Ravilov Raif Abdurakhmanovich, Candidate Master of Sports
- Shabunin Alexander Anatolyevich, Candidate Master of Sports
- Coach: Mikhailov Alexander Alexandrovich, Master of Sports, Honored Coach of Russia
- Departure to the route: 15:00, February 10, 2005
Reached the summit: 14:10, February 24, 2005
Returned to Base Camp: 21:00, February 24, 2005
General photo of the summit (February 8, 2005, Kurush village)
- Shchedrin's route, 82
- Efimov's route, 82
- Babitsky's route, 82
Wall profile photograph
Scale 1:10000
Area photopanorama
Brief area overview
From Erydag base camp, cross the Chekhykhay and Sel'dy rivers via two bridges and follow a dirt road along the right bank of Chekhykhay River downstream towards farms, above the drop-offs, approximately 40–50 minutes. Then move towards the NW wall of Erydag in the direction of the Big Well. Set up ABC on platforms to the right of the gully.
From the camp (2700 m; 2.5 hours from the base camp), ascend left through the gully, below the slope with stone "mushrooms," and reach the scree directly below the lower bastion's wall. At the top of the scree, there's a landmark cairn. This marks the start of the route (2800 m, 40 minutes from ABC).
Diagram 15
Ascent graph
Ascent days, including preparation days: 10–24.02
- Time worked on the route (hours)
- Hours of bad weather during work on the route (hours)
- Route elevations (m)
| Section # | ZKA AID | SK AID | Shl AID | Route diagram in UIAA symbols M 1:2000 | Section difficulty | Length (m) | Steepness (degrees) |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 7 | 1 | - | 2 |  | 1B | 80 | 20° |
| 6 | 30 / 30 | 1 / 1 | 1 / 1 | 6A, A2 | 40 | 85° | |
| 5 | 25 / 25 | 1 / 1 | 3 / 1 |  | 6A, A2 | 40 | 80° |
| 4 | 32 / 32 | 8 / 6 | 2 |  | 6A, A2 | 40 | 85° |
| 3 | 19 / 3 | 2 | 1 |  | 15 m – 5A, 15 m – 6A, A2 | 30 | 75° |
| 2 | 9 | 1 | 1 |  | 5A | 40 | 60° |
| 1 | 32 / 4 | 5 / 3 | 3 |  | 5A | 90 | 70° |
| 13 | 6 / 6 | 23 / 123 | 3 / 3 |  | 6B, A3 | 40 | 95° |
| 12 | 22 / 22 | 20 / 20 | 4 / 4 |  | 6B, A3 | 80 | 90° |
| 11 | 20 / 20 | 27 / 27 | 12 / 11 |  | 6B, A2 | 70 | 80° |
| 10 | 10 / 3 | - | - |  | 5B | 30 | 80° |
| 9 | 8 | - | 1 |  | 4B | 40 | 75° |
| 8 | 27 / 8 | 2 / 2 | 2 |  | 5B | 80 | 80° |
| 21 | 16 / 2 | 1 / 1 | 2 | 5B | 40 | 70° | |
| 20 | 18 / 49 | 4 / 4 | 2 / 2 | 5B, A2 | 30 | 75° | |
| 19 | 42 / 37 | 8 / 8 | 2 / 2 | 6A, A2 | 80 | 80° | |
| 18 | 5 / 5 | - | 1 / 1 | 6B, A2 | 7 | 95° | |
| 17 | 20 / 5 | 4 | 1 | 5B, A1 | 80 | 80° | |
| 16 | 14 / 14 | 2 / 2 | 2 / 2 | 6A, A2 | 20 | 80° | |
| 15 | 30 / 30 | 4 / 4 | 1 / 1 | 6A, A2 | 40 | ||
| 14 | 9 / 9 | 5 / 5 | 2 / 2 | 6B, A3 | 15 | 100° | |
| 25 | - | - | - |  | 1B | 750 | 3° |
| 24 | 5 | - | - |  | 3A | 80 | 40° |
| 23 | 10 | - | 1 |  | 5B | 40 | 75° |
| 22 | 8 | - | - |  | 10 m – 2A, 50 m – 5A | 60 | 70° |
Technical photograph of the route
The note from control point #3 is missing.
According to the description, CP #3 should have been located at R23 on a stationary piton.
The stationary piton at R23 was found, but the cairn itself was not.
The team assumes that since the cairn was located in an internal corner where water flows in the spring, it was either washed away or removed by a previous climbing group.
CP #3 was restored, and the team left their note.
Photo 1. Work on the R0–R5 belay
Photo 2. Work on the R1–R7 belay
Photo 3. Crossing the cornice on section 3, R3–R4 ropes
Photo 4. Work on the R4–R5 belay
Photo 6. Work on the R3–R7 belay
Photo 8. Leader's work on section 11 "mirror," R14–R15 ropes
Photo 9. Work on the R14–R17 belay
Photo 11. Work on the R15–R20 belay
Photo 12. Leader's work on section 14 "minaret," R19–R20 ropes
Photo 13. Work on the R18–R20 belay
Photo 14. Work on the section 14 "minaret" belay, R19–R20 ropes
Photo 15. Work of the pair on section 16 "entry to the Book," R20–R21 ropes
Photo 16. Camp #2.
Photo 17. Work in "The Book," section 19, R22–R23 ropes
Photo 18. Leader's work on section 20 "cornice bypass," R23–R24 ropes
Photo 19. Work on the R23–R24 belay, CP #3
Photo 20. Work on the R27–R28 belay
Photo 21. Work of the pair on section 6 "niches," R6–R7 ropes
Photo 22. Team on the summit, February 24, 2005. Photo by A. Korobkov