To the Judging Panel of the Ice-Snow Category of the 2021 Russian Championship
Report
on the ascent to the summit of Koazoy-Loam via the center of the southern wall, approximately category 6A (route by R. Abildaev – V. Rubtsov), undertaken by the team of the Ministry of Sports of the Republic of Tatarstan from March 6 to March 8, 2021
Leader: Ibragimov Il'nar Minnekhanovich Participants:
- Kashapov Rasim Galimzyanovich
- Kudryashov Valeriy Sergeevich
- Rozhnov Sergey Evgen'evich
Coach: Kudryashov Valeriy Sergeevich
I. Ascent Passport
| №№ p.p. | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Ibragimov Il'nar Minnekhanovich, 1st sports rank |
| 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of participants | Kashapov Rasim Galimzyanovich, Master of Sports, Kudryashov Valeriy Sergeevich, Candidate Master of Sports, Rozhnov Sergey Evgen'evich, Candidate Master of Sports |
| 1.3 | Full name of coach | Kudryashov Valeriy Sergeevich, Candidate Master of Sports |
| 1.4 | Organization | Ministry of Sports of the Republic of Tatarstan |
| 2. Characteristics of the Ascent Object | ||
| 2.1 | Region | Caucasus, Rocky Ridge, eastern part |
| 2.2 | Valley | Upper reaches of the Tetri River, "Kyazi" alpine camp |
| 2.3 | Section number according to the 2020 Classification Table | 2.9. From the Pereval Krestovyy to the summit of Shaviklde |
| 2.4 | Name and height of the summit | Koazoy-Loam, 3100 m |
| 2.5 | Geographical coordinates of the summit (latitude/longitude), GPS coordinates | 42.84° N 44.85° E (taken from the map on https://www.meteoblue.com↗) |
| 3. Route Characteristics | ||
| 3.1 | Route name | via the center of the southern wall |
| 3.2 | Proposed category of difficulty | 6A |
| 3.3 | Degree of route exploration | - |
| 3.4 | Relief characteristics of the route | rock |
| 3.5 | Elevation gain of the route (altimeter or GPS data) | 800 m |
| 3.6 | Route length (in meters) | 1085 m |
| 3.7 | Technical elements of the route (total length of sections by category of difficulty, indicating relief type (ice-snow, rock)) | Category I (snow) – 80 m, Category II (mixed) – 70 m, Category III (rock) – 70 m, Category IV (rock) – 215 m, Category V (rock) – 340 m, Category VI (rock) – 310 m. Of these: VI,A1 – 180 m, VI,A2 – 55 m, VI+,A2 – 25 m, VI+,A3 – 50 m |
| 3.8 | Average slope of the route, (°) | 70° |
| 3.9 | Average slope of the main part of the route, (°) | 76° |
| 3.10 | Descent from the summit | via route 4B (A. Donskova) |
| 3.11 | Additional route characteristics | - |
| 4. Team Actions Characteristics | ||
| 4.1 | Travel time (hours, days) | 29 h 20 min. 3 days |
| 4.2 | Overnight stays | 1st - lying on a ledge in a grotto, 2nd - lying on a rocky-snowy ledge under an overhang |
| 4.3 | Route preparation time | - |
| 4.4 | Route entry | March 6, 2021, 7:30 |
| 4.5 | Summit ascent | March 8, 2021, 16:20 |
| 4.6 | Return to base camp | March 9, 2021, 12:30 |
| 5. Weather Conditions Characteristics | ||
| 5.1 | Temperature, °C | −15°C (March 7, 7:00 to 11:30) |
| 5.2 | Wind speed, m/s | 5–7 m/s (March 7, 7:00 to 11:30) |
| 5.3 | Precipitation | snowfall (March 7, 7:00 to 11:30) |
| 5.4 | Visibility, m | 60 m, fog (March 7, 7:00 to 11:30) |
| 6. Responsible for the Report | ||
| 6.1 | Full name, e-mail | Kudryashov V.S., kudr_fart@mail.ru |
II. Ascent Description
1. Characteristics of the Ascent Object
General photo of the summit. (taken from the report of the team led by S. Livinsky, Stavropol Krai-2, 2020, Dmitrienko route 6A)
Photo of the southern wall profile of Koazoy-Loam on the left (taken on March 13, 2021 from under the S wall of Tsey-Loam, height 2450 m)
Photo of the lower part of the route profile on the left (taken on March 5, 2021 from the slope under the SE wall of Tsey-Loam, height 2250 m).
Drawn profile of the route
2. Route Characteristics
Technical photograph of the route. (March 2, 2021, taken from the highway below "Kyazi" alpine camp, height 1950 m)
| Section № | Anchors | Friends | Pitons ITO | Stations | Route Diagram in UIAA Symbols | Category of Difficulty | Length, m | Steepness, deg. |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| R14–R15 | 3 | 1 | - | IV | 25 | 55–60° | ||
| R13–R14 | 6 | - | - | IV | 60 | 65–70° | ||
| R12–R13 | 4 | 1 | - | III | 60 | 60° | ||
| R11–R12 | 2 | - | - | Terracing | I | 80 | 30° | |
| R10–R11 | 2 | - | - | II | 25 | 30° | ||
| R9–R10 | 3 | 3 | - | IV | 35 | 60° | ||
| R8–R9 | 10 | 3 | - | IV | 40 | 60° | ||
| R7–R8 | 1 | 3 | 4 | V+, A1 | 10 | 80–90° | ||
| R5–R6–R7 | 11 | 3 | 4 | V+, A1 | 35 | 80° | ||
| R4–R5 | 4 | - | - | III | 10 | 45° | ||
| R3–R4 | 4 | 2 | - | IV | 15 | 55–60° | ||
| R2–R3 | 17 | 3 | 29 | VI+, A3 | 50 | 85–95° | ||
| R1–R2 | 3 | - | - | II | 15 | 45° | ||
| R0–R1 | 13 | 2 | 3 | V+, A1 | 55 | 75–80° | ||
| Section № | Anchors | Friends | Pitons ITO | Stations | Route Diagram in UIAA Symbols | Category of Difficulty | Length, m | Steepness, deg. |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| R23–R24 | 15 | 6 | 6 | Big ledge | VI, A1 | 60 | 90° | |
| R22–R23 | 13 | 6 | 2 | VI, A1 | 60 | 90–95° | ||
| R21–R22 | 10/2 | 4 | 7 | Grey wall | VI+, A2 | 25 | 90–95° | |
| R20–R21 | 9/1 | 2/1 | 4 | VI, A2 | 30 | 80° | ||
| R19–R20 | 14/2 | 4/1 | 4 | Overnight 2 | V+, A2 | 60 | 80° | |
| R18–R19 | 3 | 1 | - | IV | 30 | 60° | ||
| R17–R18 | 18 | 7 | - | V | 120 | 75° | ||
| R16–R17 | 5 | - | - | V+ | 10 | 80° | ||
| R15–R16 | - | 7 | 6 | VI, A2 | 25 | 90–95° |
| Section № | Anchors | Friends | Pitons ITO | Stations | Route Diagram in UIAA Symbols | Category of Difficulty | Length, m | Steepness, deg. |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| R26–R27 | - | - | - | Summit 3100 m | II | 30 | 30° | |
| R25–R26 | 7 | 4 | 2 | V, A1 | 60 | 75° | ||
| R24–R25 | 10 | 5 | 5 | Big ledge | VI, A1 | 60 | 80° | |
| Total Insurance Points (ITO) | 187 | 67 | 76 |
3. Team Actions Characteristics
| Section № | Description | Photo № |
|---|---|---|
| R0–R1 | Approach from "Kyazi" alpine camp to the start of the route takes 1.5–2 hours. Start on March 6 at 7:30. Sergey Rozhnov leads. The route begins with an inclined shelf under a small overhang. On the right side of the shelf is a station on two friends. Moving left to right upwards 55 m along a destroyed rock wall, difficult climbing with occasional ITO on pitons, exit to an inclined grassy shelf. In the lower part, there is a convenient shelf for a station. | Photo 1, 2, 3 |
| R2–R3 | Key section. Vertical rock wall, overhanging in the upper part, with very poor relief. Movement left to right upwards on pitons 50 m. Insurance through anchor hooks is organized with difficulty. Exit to a small inclined grassy shelf under a chimney. Station is inconvenient. | Photo 4, 5 |
| R3–R5 | Chimney, 1.5–2 m wide, after 10 m leads to a grassy stepped wall with a wide shelf on top. Climbing is of medium difficulty. Convenient station. | |
| R5–R6–R7 | From the shelf, the general direction of movement is left and upwards towards a series of large chimneys and internal corners. Steep wall 25 m with a crack and overhang in the upper part. Difficult climbing with occasional ITO on pitons leads to the start of a horizontal narrow intermittent shelf with bushes 10 m. At the end of the shelf, there is a convenient station. | Photo 6, 7 |
| R7–R8 | From the shelf, a vertical smoothed-out overhanging chimney. Difficult climbing 10 m along the chimney with occasional ITO on pitons leads to a wide internal corner with an overhanging left wall. | Photo 8 |
| R8–R11 | Along the right side of the internal corner, moving right and upwards, after 100 m, exit to a wide snowy terrace above the first rock belt of the southern wall. Time 14:30. Convenient and safe overnight stay in a large grotto. | Photo 9 |
| R12–R14 | From the terrace, start slightly left of the lower counterfort. Sergey Rozhnov is replaced by Rasim Kashapov. Straight up along rocks of medium and above medium category of difficulty 120 m. At the end of the section, the station is hanging. Finish at 18:00, descend to overnight stay. The whole day was sunny and windless. | |
| R14–R15 | On March 7, start from the upper station at 7:30. Weather worsens, it gets colder, wind picks up, snow starts falling, visibility reduces to 60 m. Rasim Kashapov leads. Along the wall 25 m under a vertical wall with a crack. Climbing is tense, need to clear holds. | Photo 10 |
| R15–R16 | Difficult tense climbing along a vertical crack with an overhang in the middle part of the wall 25 m. For insurance, friends go well. Occasional ITO on pitons. | |
| R16–R17 | Further, the wall becomes slightly gentler. Along the internal corner 10 m to a small ledge where a station can be organized. | Photo 11 |
| R17–R19 | Along a large internal corner 120 m with climbing category V, местами V+ and further 30 m along a steep rocky-grassy slope exit to the upper snowy ledge of the main wall. Good station on a protrusion. Time 11:30. Snowfall stops, sun appears. 30 m to the right of the station on the ledge under the overhang is a convenient and safe snowy-rocky area for overnight stay. | Photo 12, 13, 14 |
| R19–R20 | R. Kashapov continues to lead. Up and to the right under overhangs towards the right part of the grey vertical wall 60 m. Difficult climbing, ITO on hooks and pitons. Loose rocks are encountered. Station is hanging. | Photo 15 |
| R20–R21 | Climbing becomes more complicated, 30 m straight up, ITO on hooks and pitons, hanging station under the grey wall. | Photo 16 |
| R21–R22 | Key section. Tense traverse left under the grey wall towards the internal corner 25 m with a height gain of 10 m. Difficult climbing, wall is vertical, careful ITO on pitons and hooks. Traverse leads to a vertical internal corner. Station is hanging. Finish at 18:00. Descend to overnight stay, simplifying the route by avoiding the traverse. | Photo 17, 18 |
| R22–R23 | On March 8, at 8:00, start from the upper station. Sunny but windy and cold. R. Kashapov leads. Up along the vertical internal corner towards the ledge 60 m. Difficult climbing, ITO. Before the station under the ledge, the internal corner overhangs. Station is hanging. | Photo 19, 20, 21 |
| R23–R24 | Ledge is bypassed on the left. Further movement towards a characteristic big ledge under the ridge, 60 m, difficult climbing, some ITO. Station under the big ledge. Here the route line converges with the line of the Penyaev route. | Photo 22 |
| R24–R25 | Big ledge is also bypassed on the left. Climbing left and upwards towards a vertical, heavily destroyed wall. After the destroyed wall, move right and upwards towards a steep internal corner. Climbing remains tense. 60 m, station is hanging. | Photo 23, 24 |
| R25–R26 | From the station, up along the internal corner towards an overhanging chimney, through it exit to the ridge. Climbing is complicated by snow and rime ice in places. 60 m, station on a protrusion on the ridge. | Photo 25 |
| R26–R27 | Along simple rocks, exit to the summit. Time 16:20. | Photo 26 |
| Overnight on the summit on a convenient ledge. On March 9, at 7:00, start descent via the traditional route 4B (A. Donskova), return to "Kyazi" BC at 12:30. |
Photo 1. Start of section R0–R1 (S. Rozhnov leads).
Photo 2. S. Rozhnov in the upper part of section R0–R1.
Photo 3. Station at the end of section R0–R1 (V. Kudryashov and I. Ibrakhimov at the station).
Photo 4. S. Rozhnov at the start of key section R2–R3.
Photo 5. S. Rozhnov completing section R2–R3.
Photo 6. S. Rozhnov at the start of section R5–R6.
Photo 7. R. Kashapov at the station at the end of section R6–R7.
Photo 8. S. Rozhnov passing the chimney, section R7–R8.
Photo 9. S. Rozhnov on section R9–R10.
Photo 10. V. Kudryashov at the station at the start of section R14–R15 (March 7, 2021, time 8:56).
Photo 11. I. Ibrakhimov on section R16–R17.
Photo 12. I. Ibrakhimov in the upper part of section R17–R18.
Photo 13. Snowy ledge at the end of section R18–R19.
Photo 14. Overnight location 2 (S. Rozhnov).
Photo 15. R. Kashapov passing section R19–R20.
Photo 16. R. Kashapov at the start of section R20–R21.
Photo 17. R. Kashapov making a difficult traverse on section R21–R22 (key section).
Photo 18. R. Kashapov on section R21–R22 (key section).
Photo 19. R. Kashapov at the start of section R22–R23 (key section).
Photo 20. I. Ibrakhimov at the station at the end of section R22–R23.
Photo 21. S. Rozhnov on the ropes in the lower part of section R22–R23.
Photo 22. R. Kashapov passing the ledge, start of section R23–R24.
Photo 23. R. Kashapov at the start of section R24–R25 (bypassing the big ledge).
Photo 24. R. Kashapov passing the zone of destroyed rocks on section R24–R25 (junction with the I. Penyaev route 6A category).
Photo 25. R. Kashapov passing section R25–R26.
Photo 26. V. Kudryashov on section R26–R27 (summit exit).
Photo of the team on the summit by the control tour. (top photo: V. Kudryashov, I. Ibrakhimov, S. Rozhnov; middle photo: plus R. Kashapov; bottom photo: by the tour I. Ibrakhimov)
Note from the summit (taken on March 8, 2021 at 16:20)
No intermediate tours were found.
P.S. We dedicate this ascent to the fairer sex!
For the first time, this route was climbed during the 2017 RF championship in the technical category by the duo R. Abildaev – V. Rubtsov, but until now it has not been classified due to a lack of information in the report of the first ascenders.
We decided to correct this situation: to climb and document the report of this route with good photo illustrations. According to our information, we made the 5th ascent (before us, the route was repeated once in 2018 and twice in 2020 as part of the RF championships in the technical category).
The general photo shows the route line in yellow, proposed for the first ascent by the judging panel of the 2017 RF championship in the technical category. Exact data on the route line by R. Abildaev–V. Rubtsov and the subsequent three teams are not available. The red line indicates our fairly logical version of the passage on sections R3–R8, R9–R13, R15–R22.
We exited to the ridge via a chimney; there was no desire to go right along the heavily destroyed ledge. The route runs parallel to the Penyaev route 6A category via the center of the southern wall of the summit (specifically the southern, not the southwestern wall, as indicated in I. Penyaev's report) and is identical in complexity and length. At the same time, the route has its own specific relief and features.
According to R. Kashapov, V. Kudryashov, and S. Rozhnov, who have completed 6B and 6A category routes, the route corresponds to the 6A category. R. Kashapov and S. Rozhnov in 2017–2018 made an ascent in this area via the Dorro route 6A category on Tsey-Loam and 5B category routes as part of the technical category of the RF championships, and they have something to compare with.
The route is logical, not prone to rockfall, although there are some loose rocks on the ledges. Anchor hooks go very well for intermediate insurance points, which is associated with the poverty of the rock relief of the wall; cam hooks are used much less frequently; stoppers were not used at all.
No hooks left by previous groups were found on the route; the route is clean. We did not leave our hooks on the route. We did not use bolt hooks.
In winter-spring, there are no problems with water. In overnight stay locations, there is snow. According to information, in summer, there is no water on the wall.
4. Weather Conditions Characteristics
Archival data of predicted weather conditions for March 7, 2021, by summit coordinates from https://www.meteoblue.com↗ are provided.
The report passport indicates the real weather on that day as experienced.
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