153. Shaurtu Severная — Glavnaya

(combined route, category III difficulty, fig. 14, 16, 17). The path from the "Bezengi" alpine camp (group of 2-4 people) to the summit of Shaurtu Severная is described in route 147. From Shaurtu Severная, descend via simple ridge rocks towards the Glavnaya summit. Overcome the big gendarme directly via steep, broken rocks of medium difficulty (piton belay). From the big gendarme, descend via steep rocks with a low gendarme onto a narrow, possibly snow-covered, saddle (cornice). From the saddle, traverse a big, wide gendarme via snow-covered simple, местами medium difficulty ridge rocks, and descend from it onto a saddle (cornice). From this saddle, traverse a small gendarme along the ridge and reach the col below the Northeast ridge of Shaurtu Glavnaya summit.

The further path to the summit of Shaurtu Glavnaya via the Northeast ridge is described in route 149. From Severная summit — 45 hours.