241. Bauman Peak via the South Ridge

(combined route, category 2A difficulty, fig. 18, 28). The path from the "Chegem" tourist base (group of 4-8 people) to the Northwest branch of the Kulak Glacier is described in route 233. Before reaching the Northwest branch, turn right and exit the glacier onto the steep right-bank moraine. Along the moraine, bypass the first step of the Northwest branch glacier's icefall from the right. After the icefall, exit onto the Northwest branch and approach the second, most powerful, step of the icefall from the right side. The second step is bypassed from the right, initially:

  • ascending a steep, narrow, heavily destroyed 35-40-meter couloir,
  • then traversing above the icefall along smooth rocks.

Further, via the "ram's foreheads," exit onto the upper plateau of the Northwest branch of the Kulak Glacier above the second step.

From here, cross the upper plateau upwards to the left and approach the lowest saddle of the spur - the Bodorku pass. From the plateau, overcoming the bergschrund via a snow bridge, ascend a steep ice-snow slope of a wide couloir (avalanches, protection) through a snow cornice onto the saddle of the Bodorku pass.

The path from:

  • "Chegem" tourist base — 10-12 hours
  • "Bashil" tourist base — is described in route 240.

At the pass (when ascending from the "Chegem" tourist base), turn right and along the easy, destroyed rocks of the ascent, exit onto the horizontal ridge. Along the long, wide, and in places narrow horizontal ridge of the spur, approach the rocky summit tower of Bauman Peak. Traverse the tower with a gradual ascent along the steep, easy, and simple destroyed rocks and ledges on the right side until exiting onto the summit northeast ridge ("live" rocks, protection). Here, turn left and along the simple, sharp (protection) northeast ridge, ascend to the summit of Bauman Peak. From the pass — 1.5-2 hours.

Sources

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