СЗ кф.
Route Description: СЗ кф.
Ascent via the North-West Buttress, 2A difficulty grade, lasting 4-4.5 hours, with a possible avalanche risk in the couloirs.
2. via N.-W. buttress, 2A
3. via left edge 3A
4. via right S.-W. buttress, 2B
5. via W. wall, 3B
6. via right W. buttress, 3B
Via North-Western Buttress, category 2A
The route is the closest from the base camp. Begin the ascent along the right tributary of the Uluun river, after 5-7 minutes, and after crossing the river, start climbing up to the right along the slope with a gradual exit to the North-Western buttress. The steepness of the buttress gradually increases. The movement takes place on snowy, uncomplicated rocks. After an hour of ascent, the buttress flattens out significantly and turns into a forty-meter snowy ridge. Further movement is carried out directly along the buttress on snowy uncomplicated rocks with simultaneous belay. After 30-35 m:
- On a three-meter inclined plate, hook belay with alternate movement is necessary.
- Above the plate, there is a snowy shelf convenient for belay.