центру С стены

Mixed4,593 m
SummitMateSSummitMate
May 8, 2025
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First ascensionists of the north wall of Lore peak (4538 m) in the Kuygey-Alatau range, a description of a challenging 5B category mountaineering route.

REPORT on the First Ascent of the North Face (Center) of Dure Peak

HISTORICAL AND GEOGRAPHICAL OVERVIEW OF THE REGION

Dure Peak is located in the western part of the Kungey-Alatau ridge, which borders the Issyk-Kul lake depression from the north, starting from the Boemskoe gorge in the west and stretching in a nearly latitudinal direction. The ridge is approximately 275 km long and 31 km wide in its highest part. The ridge consists of two parts - eastern and western. Spurs extend from the Kungey-Alatau watershed ridge, mainly in the northern and southern directions, dividing the lateral river valleys. The most significant lateral spurs by height are:

  • Chontal,
  • Orto-Koisu,
  • Karakorum, etc. Dure Peak is adjacent to the 1st western peak of the Chontal massif. The height of Dure Peak, according to the 1962 survey, is 4538 m. The first sufficiently detailed map of the Kungey-Alatau ridge was compiled by V. Gorbunov in 1937. In the same year, A. Ignatiev conquered the highest point of the ridge - Chontal, 4771 m high. In subsequent years, several ascents were made in the Chontal massif area, up to category 5B difficulty.
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