Trezubets peak is the main elevation of a powerful spur that separates Ototaš glacier and the eastern branch of Komarov glacier. The spur has steep icy slopes interrupted by sheer rock drops. The ascent to Trezubets peak is made from Ototaš glacier, where a camp is usually set up. It is quite difficult to chart a specific route to the summit due to the lack of good landmarks. It is worth noting that the ascent should begin from the north side of the sheer rock wall opposite to Obzorny peak. After ascending 400–450 m up the icy rocks, there follows an icy section: here, one has to overcome a 60-degree ice wall with crevasses in a couloir. The final section — up to the ridge — is snowy. The ridge is rocky and sharp; the length of its traverse depends on the point of ascent to the ridge. The highest point is not clearly expressed — it is a pillar-gendarme.

Ascent to Trezubets peak via the eastern wall (cat. 3B) 5258

We leave the camp located at the foot of the Main summit of Trezubets peak at 5:00. After 70 m of movement across the glacier in deep snow, we reach the rocks. Their average steepness throughout is about 60°. We rope up in two pairs. Zarubin P. (leader) and Chasov E. — the first pair; Vasiliev (leader) and Ivanova V. — the second. The direction of movement is to the right along the walls, then up and to the left. Movement is always with alternate belay. The rocks are not solid, so it is not easy to organize a reliable belay. Very often, we belay through an ice axe driven into the dense icy firn. x) Ascents made by participants of these expeditions in other ridges are not considered by us. xx) The description is compiled by L. Vasiliev. A thin layer of ice and snow on the rocks hinders movement. Deep loose snow lies between the rocks. We carefully avoid couloirs. All of them show traces of recent large and small avalanches. In addition, many couloirs hide serac ice under a thin layer of snow.