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Mixed4,902 m
SummitMateSSummitMate
May 8, 2025
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Ascent to the peak of Marona via the North-Eastern ridge, category 3A difficulty level; route description, key stages, and details of the ascent and descent.

ASCENT TO PIK MARONA VIA THE NORTH-EAST RIDGE (cat. grade 3A) 2729 From the camp located on a flat, gravelly area of the upper modern erosion base of the Issledovateley and Chon-Turasu glaciers, we head towards the NNE rock ridge of Pik Marona, situated between the Chon-Turasu river and the Marona glacier. We cross ridges of old lateral moraines and, after 15 minutes, approach the slope of the ridge at a point where a powerful talus slope descends from under the rocky ridge. To the left remain:

  • massive rock outcrops of black-green rock,
  • scree slopes of fine gravel stretching from them. We ascend directly up the talus slope to a rock wall, then move:
  • first along the slope,
  • then along terraces upwards along the wall,
  • across fine scree, clay soils, and occasionally easy rock. After 2 hours of ascent, we reach the end of the terrace. This location is easily identifiable by two small caves, and the terrace almost immediately ends.
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