First Ascent to the Western Peak "Bezbozhnik" via the North Face

The peak "Bezbozhnik" is located in the Dmitriyevka spur, which branches off from Stal'skiy peak and separates the Stal'skiy Glacier to the north and the Frunze Glacier to the south; both glaciers feed the tributaries of the Leviy Talgar River. To the east, "Bezbozhnik" peak is separated from Frunze peak by a pass of the same name, and to the west, a rocky-snowy ridge connects "Bezbozhnik" peak to an unnamed peak. The Leviy Talgar valley is rarely visited by climbers from both "Talgar" and "Tuyuk-Su" alpine camps (due to the non-classification of peaks and remoteness). At the beginning of the summer season in 1962, a group of instructors consisting of Mansurov B.Sh. and Postnikov V.V. conducted a reconnaissance in the Leviy Talgar area. They took photographs, compiled piton records, and descriptions of many peaks. The reconnaissance aimed to find routes of 5B category difficulty. Three routes were discovered:

• to the peak Konstitutsiya via the wall,
• to an unnamed peak in the area of the Dmitriyevka lesgik,
• to the "Bezbozhnik" peak. There was one existing route to "Bezbozhnik" peak with a category of 4B-5B. A group of instructors consisting of:
• Mansurov B.Sh.