Molodezhnaya 1B cat. sl. via Molodezhny pass, descent along the NE ridge

Description of the route. The fan-shaped Molodezhnaya peak is located in the northwestern branch of the Malo-Almatinsky spur (between the eponymous pass and the peak named after Kosmodemyanskaya). Its southwestern slope is covered with powerful scree, while the northeastern slope is covered with snow and ice. The massif of the peak and its northeastern ridge are the main source of nourishment for the 2.5 km long, 2 sq. km Molodezhny glacier. From the initial bivouac on the moraine of the glacier:

• Cross the ramparts
• Reach the glacier slightly above its tongue
• Move along the middle of the glacier to the foot of the slope of the Molodezhny pass (3735 m) The slope is snowy, with exposed ice areas at the end of the season, with a steepness of 30–35°. From here, begin the ascent to the ridge straight up, orienting towards a group of rocks; it is not recommended to go to the left — it can trigger an avalanche. The ridge leads to the so-called "chicken breast" — a steep section of snow or ice, which is overcome with piton belay (2 ice screws) along the fixed ropes or bypassed along the rocks. The length of the section is about 40 m, with a steepness of up to 50°. Beyond the "chicken breast" is the exit to the shoulder of the peak — a small snow plateau; from here, the ascent to the peak follows snow and a gentle, fine scree. The peak is a wide snow plateau with the remains of a destroyed ridge, on which a cairn is built. Descent along the northeastern ridge. The encountered gendarmes are easily bypassed. Insurance is sometimes necessary. Having reached the two-pronged gendarme, one can:
• release the main ropes