с запада по кулуару ЮЗ гребня
Mixed3Б
Route Description: с запада по кулуару ЮЗ гребня
Ascent to the summit of Passionary (4000 m) in the Kalper Range via the western couloir and south-west ridge, category 3B.
Passionaria
The Passionaria peak (4000 m) is located in the central part of the Kalper ridge, between Vilsa peak to the northeast and Moskvich to the southwest. To the south, into the Kassar gorge, Passionaria has relatively gentle, heavily destroyed slopes with numerous couloirs, where no ascents have been made. Routes to the summit are only laid from the Tsey gorge. First ascenders:
- N. Tarasenko
- D. Donskoy
- P. Kurilov
- V. Sotnikov Reached Passionaria on August 5, 1934, while traversing the ridge from Lagau to Vilsa.
- Passionaria from the west via the couloir and southwest ridge, Category III difficulty (E. Stroganov, E. Voskresenskaya et al., August 12, 1947). From the KSP of the Tsey region (group of 4–8 people, departure at 3:00 AM due to avalanches and rockfalls in the couloirs) follow the trail on the left bank of the Skazdon river to approach the "Green Hill" of the left-bank moraine of the Skazgsky glacier. Bypass the "Green Hill" from the left. Then turn left and move up along the stream to the "Gates" of the wide snowy western couloir descending from the saddle of the Kalper ridge between Passionaria on the left and Moskvich on the right. By passing a huge sharp rock standing in the center of the entrance to the couloir, approach the rocky platforms on the right side of the lower part of the couloir along the right side of the wide snowy western couloir (avalanches and rockfalls are possible).
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