СВ гребню
Rock2Б
Route Description: СВ гребню
SSummitMateDescription of traversing the Dzhorashly - Kurshogan North - South ridge in the form of an alpine route of the 3rd category of difficulty, which is uncomplicated in terms of technique, but time-consuming.
Jorashy - Kurshogan North - South
Fig. 15
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Route Description: СВ гребню
SSummitMateAscent to the summit of Jorashty-Kurshogan North via the Northeast ridge, a combined route of 2B category of difficulty.
- DzhorashTy-Kurshogan Northern peak via North-Eastern ridge (combined route, category 2B difficulty, fig. 14, 15). The path from the "Chegem" tourist base (group of 4-12 people) to the initial bivouac at Tyutyurgy pass is described in route 138, and to the Kopy pass - in route 135. From the initial bivouac, descend to the Bulungu glacier and ascend on the right side of its Southern branch towards the saddle of the North-Eastern ridge of DzhorashTy-Kurshogan peak. From the glacier, having crossed the snow bridge over the bergschrund, ascend a steep 60-70-meter snowy slope to the saddle (cornice) of the North-Eastern ridge. On the saddle, turn right and follow the straightforward snow-covered North-Eastern ridge, then ascend a steep 100-120-meter snowy slope (cornices, protection) of the North-Eastern ridge to reach the Zub gendarme. Bypass the gendarme on the steep ice-snow slope on the right (protection). Continue on the straightforward, ruined, snow-covered, rocky North-Eastern ridge (cornices) to reach the summit of DzhorashTy-Kurshogan Northern peak. 5-6 hours from the initial bivouac.
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